Active Pursuits

Biking

Ottawans are enthusiastic cyclists, fully utilizing the more than 160km (100 miles) of bike paths running along the Ottawa and Rideau rivers and Rideau Canal, and through Gatineau Park; more miles are being added, too. A blue, black, and white cyclist logo marks all bikeways. From mid-April to the Canadian Thanksgiving (which occurs late in Oct), bicycles are available at RentABike, based at the east arch of the Plaza Bridge at 2 Rideau St. (tel. 613/241-4140). Town bikes, sport bikes, mountain bikes, and in-line skates are available, with standard bikes from C$9 (US$9/£4.50) per hour and performance bikes for an additional charge. Take the kids along in a bike trailer with two seats and a harness, if you like. The company will also provide maps of self-guided pathway tours around the city, as well as guided tours. Bikes and in-line skates can also be rented at Dow's Lake Marina Pavilion (tel. 613/232-5278), located on the Rideau Canal at 1001 Queen Elizabeth Dr. The city's public transportation company, OC Transpo, has installed bicycle racks on the outside of more than 150 buses for the use of passengers with bikes; it's first come, first served. For details about specific routes on the system, call tel. 613/741-4390.

Boating/Canoeing

Rent paddleboats and canoes at the marina (tel. 613/232-1001) at the Dow's Lake Pavilion, 1001 Queen Elizabeth Dr. The glass-and-steel complex, which looks like a flotilla of sails from a distance, has several restaurants and provides a welcome haven after a winter skate or a summer running or biking jaunt. Boats can also be rented in Gatineau Park at Lac la Pêche and Lac Philippe (tel. 819/827-2020).

Golf

The Ottawa metro region offers more than 60 courses in all, including the one on the premises of the Château Montebello in Québec (tel. 819/423-6341). Greens fees for 18 holes generally run C$25 to C$45 (US$25-US$45/£13-£23), but are more expensive at resorts.

Hiking & Nature Walks

A band of protected wetlands and woodlands surrounds the capital on the Ontario side of the Ottawa River, and here you can find ideal hiking areas. Regional maps are available from the Capital Infocentre downtown at 14 Metcalfe St. Big Gatineau Park (tel. 819/827-2020) couches impressive networks of hiking trails throughout its 35,000 hectares (86,487 acres). West of the city in the suburb of Kanata, Riverfront Park has nature trails along the Ottawa River. Over on the Québec side in the village of Luskville, a walking trail leads to Luskville Falls; it begins on the Chemin de Hôtel de Ville (which translates as "City Hall Road," if you're wondering).

Then there's the peaceful riverside Rideau Trail, running all the way from Ottawa to Kingston : it's the area's major serious hiking trail, stretching some 390km (242 miles), including side trails. Though it doesn't present any huge gains or dips in altitude along its course, it's a nice extended stroll. Contact the Rideau Trail Association (tel. 613/545-0823; www.rideautrail.org) for info and B&B listings along the way.

Skating

From late December to late February (depending on the weather), the Rideau Canal becomes the world's longest skating rink, stretching from the National Arts Centre to Dow's Lake and Carleton University; every morning the radio news reports ice conditions, and skating here is seriously romantic. Rent skates at several locations for C$12 to C$16 (US$12-US$16/£6-£8) per 2 hours. The canal is serviced with heated huts, sleigh rentals, boot-check and skate-sharpening services, concessions, and restrooms. In-line skates are available at the RentABike facility behind Château Laurier and from the pavilion at the Dow's Lake Marina.

Skiing

If you're serious about cross-country skiing on your trip to Ottawa, Gatineau Park is a splendid choice with its 185km (115 miles) or so of groomed trails. Even in downtown Ottawa, in fact, you can cross-country ski the bike paths paralleling the Eastern or Western parkways. Few visitors downhill ski the areas around Ottawa, however, mostly heading instead for Québec's sophisticated, excellent Laurentian resorts which lie only an hour or so to the east. Ski resorts around the capital are more compelling summer attractions, with their water parks and other family-friendly facilities. That said, check these out if you wish:

Swimming

Pools open to the public include those at Carleton University on Colonel By Drive, the University of Ottawa at 125 University Dr., and the YMCA-YWCA at 180 Argyle Dr. Lake swimming is available in Gatineau Park, Meech Lake, Lac la Pêche, and at Lac Philippe.

White-Water Rafting

Enjoy the exhilaration of a day of white-water rafting and be back in your hotel bed that night. Outings are available from mid-May to September, depending on the river. Owl Rafting (tel. 613/646-2263 in summer, or 613/238-7238 in winter; www.owlrafting.com) offers white-water rafting trips within 90 minutes of the city, pounding over extensive rapids for the fit and adventurous and floating on gentler stretches for families. Prices start at around C$100 (US$100/£50) per person per day during the week, more on the weekends, meals included. Shorter trips of 2 hours are intended for families and are more cost effective.

The Pride of Ottawa: The Rideau Canal

Built in the early 19th century under the leadership of Lt. Colonel John By, a civil and military engineer, the Rideau Canal was meant to bypass the Thousand Islands section of the St. Lawrence River, which was thought to be vulnerable to American attack in the tense atmosphere following the War of 1812. It was to connect Kingston with the Ottawa River, allowing the transportation of troops and supplies to Canada's capital and then onward to Montréal. Construction of the 198km (123-mile) canal began in 1826 and took just 6 years.

Beginning in Ottawa, the canal follows the course of the Rideau River to its summit on Upper Rideau Lake, which is connected to Newboro Lake; here, the canal descends the Cataraqui River through a series of lakes controlled by dams to Kingston. In Ottawa, a flight of eight locks allows boats to negotiate the 24m (79 ft.) difference in height between the artificially constructed section of the canal and the natural level of the Ottawa River -- a sight not to be missed. You can observe this fascinating maneuver between Parliament Hill and Château Laurier.

I'm skipping over some history. The feared American invasion never materialized, railroads soon became the desired mode of travel and freight, and the swiftly outmoded canal was left to its own. Yet it has been miraculously reborn, over time, and it's a disused artifact no more; today, this is one of eastern Ontario's most impressive visual and recreational assets. In summer, walk or cycle along the canal paths or row a canoe or boat on a gentle journey before stopping at the canalside cafe at the National Arts Centre. You can even rent houseboats to navigate its entire length.

In winter, the canal becomes the world's longest (8km/5 miles) skating course, as families pile onto the ice with children perched on their backs and drawn on sleighs. Some locals even strap on skates and glide to and from work, briefcases in hand! And I'll wager you've never seen that before anywhere.