Nightlife

Ottawa's culture and nightlife offerings aren't nearly up to those of Toronto or Montréal, extending mostly to the National Arts Centre, the bars and pubs of the ByWard Market and Elgin Street areas, and a few stray dance clubs. Still, there's certainly enough to occupy you for all the evenings of a long weekend.

The opening of the Casino du Lac-Leamy, 1 bd. du Casino (tel. 800/665-2274 or 819/772-2100; www.casino-du-lac-leamy.com), was big news to Ontarians; as a traveler, though, I'm frankly a bit baffled as to why anyone would spend time indoors gambling while on vacation. After all, this is hardly Vegas. If you can't resist, I will say this -- it's both big and central. Less than 5km (3 miles) from Parliament Hill and open daily from 11am to 3am, the casino imposes a dress code (sorry, no bustiers, tank tops, caps, hats, jogging clothes, motorcycle boots, cutoffs, bicycle shorts, or beachwear). Both the exterior and the interior are dramatically landscaped with tropical plants, pools, and waterfalls, and there are more than 1,800 slot machines -- plus 60 tables for playing blackjack, roulette, baccarat, and poker. Musical attractions in the Théâtre du Casino mostly take in headliners who were famous 40 years ago, and there are dance and musical revues to provide respite from losing.

The complex also provides two lounges and four restaurants to keep you in the building, including fine dining in La Baccara, the popular buffet-style Banco, the seafood grill La Marina, and a poolside snack bar. You must be 18 to enter the casino, whose doors open daily at 9am and finally close at 4am (yes, 4 in the morning). Need wheels? Shuttles operate from Ottawa hotels to the casino for about C$10 (US$10/£5) per round-trip.

For Ottawa entertainment listings, pick up a copy of Where, a free guide often provided by hotels; Ottawa magazine; the hip and free Ottawa X-Press weekly newspaper; or the weekend edition of the Ottawa Citizen, the capital's daily paper.

The Performing Arts

Canadian and international musical, dance, and theater artists -- including the resident NAC Orchestra -- perform at the expansive National Arts Centre, located at 53 Elgin St. at Confederation Square (tel. 866/850-ARTS or 613/947-7000; www.nac-cna.ca). The building, created by architect Fred Lebensold, is made of three interlocking hexagons beside the Rideau Canal, its terraces tendering views of Parliament Hill and the Ottawa River. There are three auditoriums: the European-style Opera; a 950-seat Theatre with an innovative apron stage; and the Studio, used for experimental works. The National Arts Centre Orchestra performs in seven or eight main concert series here each year. The center also offers classic and modern drama in English and French, and guided tours are also available. Ask for the free monthly Calendar of NAC Events. The NAC also owns a popular canalside restaurant, Le Café (tel. 613/594-5127; Mon-Sat year-round).

Augmenting the main events at the National Arts Centre, the ensemble at the Great Canadian Theatre Company (tel. 613/236-5196; www.gctc.ca), presents contemporary drama and comedy with Canadian themes from September to May in a brand-new sparkling theater facility known as the Irving Greenberg Theatre Centre. It's located at 1233 Wellington St. W. (at Holland Ave.). Show tickets start at C$26 (US$26/£13).

Music Clubs

Nightlife used to close down at 1am (11pm Sun) in Ottawa, while it thumped on until the wee hours (3am) across the river in Gatineau -- an accurate reflection of the tension between Canada's British proprietary and its Franco laissez-fairness. This created a kind of noisome, late-night stampede across the river; authorities on both sides of the river finally agreed it would just be best to synchronize closing regulations in both cities at 2am, and that's generally when it happens now.

Gay & Lesbian Bars

Capital XTRA! is Ottawa's gay/lesbian news-and-events magazine, a source for up-to-date info on the local scene. For updated gay and lesbian activities and events, pick up a copy or log on to the magazine's website at www.xtra.ca. The last week of August brings the Pride Festival (tel. 613/421-5387; www.prideottawa.com), celebrating Ottawa's large community of gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender residents.