Getting Around

Walking is easily the best way. The only public transportation is the 130-odd-route bus network operated by the Ottawa-Carleton Regional Transit Commission (OC Transpo); all routes converge downtown at the Rideau Centre, and they begin to close down at midnight. (There's no service at all 1-6am.) The no. 1 bus makes a fairly comprehensive tour of downtown. Using the bus is a bit complicated; rides require more than one ticket (for adult riders), and exact change must be used. An adult in-town ride (2 tickets) is C$3 (US$3/£1.50) for adults, C$1.50 (US$1.50/75p) for ages 6 to 11, free for children 5 and under. A C$6.60-$7.25 (US$6.60-US$7.25/£3.30-£3.65) DayPass allows unlimited travel on all routes. You can buy tickets at 300 retail outlets, such as at newsstands and at drugstores.

For more information about routes, where to buy tickets, and more, call tel. 613/741-4390 Monday through Friday 7am to 9pm, Saturday 8am to 9pm, and Sunday 9am to 6pm; or visit www.octranspo.com.

In Gatineau, buses are operated by the Société de Transport de l'Outaouais (tel. 819/770-3242). Transfers between the two systems are obtainable when you pay your fare on the bus.

Taxis in Ottawa can be hailed on the street but can be found more readily in front of major hotels and important buildings. Or summon one by phone, something restaurant headwaiters are happy to do. One 24-hour company is Blueline (tel. 613/238-1111), with more than 600 cabs. Fares are C$2.90 (US$2.90/£1.45) to start and about C$1.60 (US$1.60/80p) per kilometer after that; you also get charged for waiting in traffic, about C45¢ (US45¢/25p) per minute. Most drivers accept credit cards, usually MasterCard or Visa.

In summer, athletic young men (mostly university students -- I think) pull passengers around the tourist districts in rickshaws. Fares are not fixed in the city; negotiate a good deal -- before setting out.

You may not want to drive in Ottawa, although traffic isn't too bad except during rush hours, but a car is essential to explore the environs or continue elsewhere in Canada. Rental agencies based in Ottawa include Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 or 613/739-3334), Budget (tel. 800/472-3325 or 613/521-4844), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 or 613/521-3332), and National Alamo (tel. 800/227-7368 or 613/737-7023), all with offices at the airport and various downtown locations. However, you can save money by arranging for the rental before leaving home.

Parking will cost around C$4 (US$4/£2) for an hour, sometimes less, with about a C$20 (US$20/£10) maximum charge at many local garages. The best parking bets are the municipal parking lots, marked with a large green P in a circle.

When driving, remember that Ontario has a compulsory seat-belt requirement, and pay careful attention to the city's system of one-way streets, which often have three or four streets in a row going in the same direction, rather than alternating. The Queensway (Rte. 417) -- a major expressway -- cuts right through the city, adding to the confusion. The downtown entrance to this highway is at O'Connor Street; exit the highway at Kent Street if you want to reach downtown most quickly. Unlike in Montréal and New York, cars in Ottawa may turn right after first stopping for a red streetlight.

A Road by Any Other Name . . . -- Finding your way around Ottawa on foot or by car can be bewildering to say the least, since streets have a habit of halting abruptly at a dead-end -- then reappearing a few blocks farther on. Others change names several times. One main street begins in the west as Scott Street, changes to Wellington as it passes through downtown and in front of Parliament, changes again to Rideau, and finally becomes Montréal Road on the eastern fringes of town.

My advice? Three words: Carry a map. The information office provides a serviceable one. Ask for one at your hotel, too.