Parks & Gardens

Gatineau Park

One of the star attractions in an Ottawa visit is Gatineau Park, which is across the river in Quebec. It begins just 3km (2 miles) from Parliament, yet holds some 35,000 hectares (86,486 acres) of woodland and lakes, all named after the Quebec notary-turned-explorer Nicolas Gatineau. This park was inaugurated in 1938, when the federal government bought up large tracts of land in the Gatineau Hills to put a halt to logging, development, and forest destruction in the region. Black bear, timber wolf, otter, marten, and raccoon are joined by white-tailed deer, beaver, and more than 100 species of birds. Also resident here, though rarely glimpsed, are lynx and wolverines . . . and cougars. One was spotted in the summer of 2007.

The park's facilities include 145km (90 miles) of hiking trails and supervised swimming beaches at Meech Lake, Lac Philippe, and Lac la Peche. Canoes, kayaks, and rowboats can be rented at Lac Philippe and Lac la Peche. Motorboats are only permitted on Lac la Peche, where motors up to 10 horsepower may be used for fishing. Most of the park's lakes can be fished (if it's not allowed, it will be posted), too -- a Quebec license is required, and can be obtained at many of the convenience stores around the park.

Camping facilities are at or near Lac Philippe, accessible by highways 5, 105, and 366; there are also 35 canoe camping sites at Lac la Peche. For details on camping facilities, contact the Gatineau Park Visitor Centre, 33 Scott Rd., Chelsea, PQ J9B 1R5 (tel. 800/465-1867 or 819/827-2020; www.capitaleducanada.gc.ca/gatineau), or the National Capital Commission, 40 Elgin St., Suite 202, Ottawa, ON K1P 1C7. Reservations are vital.

In winter, hiking trails become cross-country ski trails, marked by numbers on blue plaques, with chalets along the way. Winter camping is available at Lac Philippe.

In the middle of the park is the former summer retreat of Mackenzie King, officially known as the "Mackenzie King Estate" but often simply called Kingsmere. While he was serving as Prime Minister for 22 years, King collected the architectural fragments on view at this estate, transported here from the Centre Block Parliament building after a 1916 fire and from London's House of Commons after the 1941 Blitz. Linger over a beverage and snack in a cottage converted to a tea room. It's open daily from 11am to 5pm spring through October. For reservations, call tel. 819/827-3405.

Driving Miss Daisy . . . to Gatineau Park -- There are several routes to Gatineau Park by car from the city. It all depends on where you want to go. You can:

• Cross one of the city's bridges over to Gatineau, then take boulevard Tache (Rte. 148) to the Gatineau Parkway, which leads to Kingsmere, Ski Fortune, and eventually Meech Lake.

• Take Route 5 (the Autoroute de la Gatineau) north, taking Exit 12 for Old Chelsea, turning left, and proceeding 1km (1/2 mile) on Meech Lake Road to the Gatineau Park Visitor Centre.

• To reach Lac Philippe, take Route 5 north out of Gatinteau and then Route 105 to the intersection of Route 366 west. Just before reaching Ste-Cecile-de-Masham, turn off to Lac Philippe; to reach Lac la Peche, keep going along the Masham road to St-Louis-de-Masham and enter the park just beyond.

More Parks & Gardens

The Canada Agriculture Museum and its core component, the Central Experimental Farm, on Prince of Wales Drive (tel. 613/230-3276), don't form a traditional park, as is obvious by the name -- but with its 500 hectares (1,236 acres), it qualifies as the largest green space of all. Though now surrounded by suburban Ottawa, the farm has livestock barns housing various breeds of cattle, pigs, chickens, sheep, and horses. (Milking time is usually 4pm.) The greenhouses shelter a noted chrysanthemum show every November, and there are also an ornamental flower garden and an arboretum with 2,000 varieties of trees and shrubs. You can ride in wagons drawn by brawny Clydesdales, weather permitting, and in winter there are sleigh rides.

Admission is C$6 (US$6/#3) for adults, C$5 (US$5/#2.50) for seniors and students, and C$3 (US$3/#1.50) for children ages 3 to 14. March through October, the agricultural museum, barns, and tropical greenhouse are open daily 9am to 5pm; November through February, except Christmas and New Year's Day, the barns and tropical greenhouse are open but the museum's exhibits are closed.

Open all year, Parc Omega, Route 323 North (Nord), Montebello (tel. 818/423-5487; www.parc-omega.com), is a wildlife park near Gatineau Park. It changes dramatically by seasons, scarcely recognizable as the same park in summer that it was last winter. At the entrance, elk wait for one of the carrots purchased with your tickets, just a foreshadowing of the many animals you'll spot on your drive -- most of which stroll right up to your car to take snacks from your hand. Among the most visible are whitetail deer, wapiti, bison, fallow deer, raccoons, and wild boar, all of which roam free. Kept in large enclosures are black bears, timber wolves, and raptors, including bald eagles. With luck, you might even see a reclusive moose.

A restaurant and picnic grounds are set above a pretty lake. From June to October, admission is C$16 (US$16/#8) for adults, C$11 (US$11/#5.50) for children ages 6 to 15, and C$6 (US$6/#3) for children ages 2 to 5. From November to May it costs only C$13 (US$13/#6.50) for adults, C$9 (US$9/#4.50) for children ages 6 to 15, and C$5 (US$5/#2.50) for children ages 2 to 5. You can enter from 9am to 5pm in high summer season, from 10am to 4pm the rest of the year.