Cherwell Boathouse Restaurant

An Oxford landmark on the River Cherwell, this restaurant is owned by Anthony Verdin, who is assisted by a young crew. With an intriguing fixed-price menu, the cooks change the fare every 2 weeks to take advantage of the availability of fresh vegetables, fish, and meat. There is a very reasonable, even exciting, wine list. The kitchen is often cited for its "sensible combinations" of ingredients. The success of the main dishes is founded on savory treats such as grilled quail with garlic-and-oregano dressing; pan-fried medallions of beef with a shallot-and-truffle sauce, and chargrilled loin of pork with a chorizo-laced butter. A special treat is the grilled gray mullet with ratatouille accompanied by a basil-and-chili sauce. For dessert, indulge in the lemon-and-almond roulade. The style is sophisticated yet understated, with a heavy reliance on quality ingredients that are cooked in such a way that natural flavors are always preserved.

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