Al-Shami

Bearing the archaic name for the city of Damascus, this Lebanese restaurant is a bit more formal than its also-recommended competitor, Al-Salam. It contains two separate dining rooms: one with blessings from the Koran stenciled in calligraphic patterns under the coves, the other with pale beige walls and lots of wood paneling. Expect a clientele of local residents, with probably fewer students than you're likely to find at Al-Salam, and a formally dressed Arabic- and English-speaking staff wearing black trousers, bow ties, and white vests. Many diners don't go beyond the appetizers because they comprise more than 40 delectable hot and cold selections -- everything from falafel to a salad made with lamb's brains. Chargrilled chopped lamb, chicken, or fish constitute most of the main-dish selections. Desserts are chosen from the cart, and vegetarian meals are also available.

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