Active Pursuits

Fishing, Golf & Scuba Diving

Fishing -- The waters off southern Viti Levu are renowned for their big game fish, especially when the tuna and mahimahi are running from January to May and when big wahoos pass by in June and July. The women's world records for wahoo and trevally were set here. Xtasea Charters (tel. 345 0280; www.xtaseacharters.com) and Tropical Fishing & Water Sports (tel. 992 3233; www.sportfishingfiji.com) can tailor excursions -- from going for big ones offshore to trolling for smaller but exciting catch inshore. A full day of fishing costs about F$500 (US$300) for half a day, F$800 (US$480) for a full day.

Golf -- Robert Trent Jones, Jr. designed the scenic 18-hole, par-72 The Pearl South Pacific Championship Golf Course (tel. 345 0905), on the north side of the Queen's Road. Some of its fairways cross lakes; others cut their way through narrow valleys surrounded by jungle-clad hills. Greens fees are F$40 (US$24), and the pro shop has equipment for rent.

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling -- San Francisco-based Aqua-Trek (tel. 800/541-4334 or 345 0324; fax 345 0324; www.aquatrek.com) has expeditions to Beqa Lagoon. Aqua-Trek also teaches resort diving and a full range of PADI courses. A two-tank dive costs F$170 (US$102).

River Rafting & Kayaking

Videos and brochures often feature tourists lazily floating down a Fijian river on a raft made of bamboo poles lashed together. In the old days, mountain-dwelling Fijians really did use bilibilis -- flimsy bamboo rafts -- to float their crops down river to market. They would discard the rafts and walk home. Today you can ride your own bilibili down the Navua River, between Pacific Harbour and Suva. The award-winning Discover Fiji Tours (tel. 345 0180; www.discoverfijitours.com) takes you upriver by motorized canoe and usually brings you back on a bilibili (ask if the bilibili ride is included before you sign up).

The river itself is a scenic delight as it cuts its way through the foothills. Depending on how much it has rained recently, you'll have a few gentle rapids to negotiate, and you'll stop for dips in waterfalls that tumble right into the river. Wear swimsuits and sandals, but bring a sarong to wear in a typical Fijian village, where you'll be welcomed at a yaqona ceremony.

These full-day trips cost about F$85 (US$51) from Pacific Harbour, more from the Nadi and Coral Coast hotels. Children pay about half fare. Reservations and a minimum of two passengers are required.

Discover Fiji Tours also has 1 1/2-hour hikes through a rainforest to a waterfall, plus rafting-hiking trips. Call or check the website for details.

If you're into serious white-water rafting, the South Pacific's best is with Rivers Fiji (tel. 800/446-2411 in the U.S., or 345 0147; fax 345 0148; www.riversfiji.com). This American-owned outfit uses modern inflatable rafts and kayaks for trips through the Upper Navua River Gorge, the "Grand Canyon of Fiji" and an official conservation area. I have met experienced rafters who say the Navua Gorge was one of their top experiences. The adventures cost about US$150 per person. It also has 1- and 2-day inflatable kayaking trips -- "funyacking," it calls them -- on the 'Luva River, another picturesque waterway up in the Namosi Highlands, for US$110 and US$365 per person, respectively. And it has 6-day trips combining the Upper Navua River Gorge, the 'Luva, and sea kayaking in the Beqa Lagoon. Reservations are essential.