Bright red walls seem to rev up the energy to high levels in this ever-busy favorite, but the buzz is really about the good, simple food served at very reasonable prices. A decent antipasti platter offers a nice sampling of panelle (fried chickpea fritters) and other street food, but go with the daily specials to get the full flavor of the kitchen. The preference is for beans and celery, broad beans and vegetables, meatballs in tomato sauce, boiled veal, and other classics. Service hovers between nonchalant and brusque, but the jovial atmosphere compensates, and you’ll pay very little for your homey meal.