Nightlife

Every month a different club or disco is the hot spot in the Springs, and the best way to tap into the trend is by consulting the Desert Guide, the Bottom Line, or one of the many other free newsletters available from area hotels and merchants. VillageFest turns Palm Canyon Drive into an outdoor party every Thursday night. For a trip back into Rat Pack days, drop in at Buddy Greco's Dinner Restaurant. There is a show at 8pm with a cover charge of $40 per person if you are dining, $60 if just in for drinks. Below, I've described a couple of the enduring arts and entertainment attractions around the desert resorts.

The Fabulous Palm Springs Follies, at the Plaza Theatre, 128 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs (tel. 760/327-0225; www.psfollies.com), a vaudeville-style show filled with highly polished and lavishly costumed production numbers reminiscent of the Ziegfeld days, is a long-running hit in the historic Plaza Theatre in the heart of town. With a cast of retired showgirls, singers, dancers, and comedians, the revue is hugely popular. In addition, there are guest stars such as Mimi Hines, Kaye Ballard, Anna Maria Alberghetti, and the Four Aces. The season runs November through May; call for exact schedule. Tickets range from $42 to $95. Matinees are at 1:30pm, evening shows at 7pm.

The McCallum Theatre for the Performing Arts, 73000 Fred Waring Dr., Palm Desert (tel. 866/889-2787), offers the only cultural high road around. Frequent symphony performances feature visiting virtuosos such as conductor Seiji Ozawa or violinist Itzhak Perlman; musicals such as Hairspray, and Gypsy; and pop performers such as Steve and Edie (Lawrence and Gorme) or Patti Lu Pone, were among recent offerings. Call for upcoming events.

Casinos

Native American gaming has been part of desert life for years now, but recently the industry seems to have joined the major leagues, with a professionalism and polish that have given rise to a "virtual Vegas."

The best-known and most centrally located casino is the Spa Resort Casino in the heart of Palm Springs. Gaming rooms that were once an afterthought now share the spotlight with the hot springs. Attendees at the hotel's conference center on business can often be found playing hooky at one or both.

You can't help but be impressed by the brilliant neon fireballs of the Agua Caliente Casino, northeast of Palm Springs at 32-250 Bob Hope Dr., Rancho Mirage (tel. 888/999-1995 or 760/321-2000; www.hotwatercasino.com), down the street from the Westin Mission Hills. The new hotel has 340 rooms, a 10,000-square-foot spa, three restaurants, and a 2,000-seat showroom; call tel. 866/923-7244 for reservations.

The former Trump 29, now run by the owning Indian tribe, is called Spotlight 29, 46-200 Harrison Place, Coachella (tel. 866/878-6729), about a half-hour from Palm Springs. Although the land is tribal-owned, this sophisticated complex is Vegas all the way, with its big-name shows and high-roller players club to its 24-hour fine dining and all-you-can-eat prime-rib buffets.

Other tribal casino/resorts flank the valley, with the Morongo Casino, Resort and Spa to the northwest, at 49500 Seminole Dr., Cabazon, CA 92230 (tel. 888-MORONGO [667-6646]), with 310 rooms, 32 suites, and six casitas by the pool. Four restaurants, food court, and full-service salon and spa augment the three nightclubs, not to mention the tables.