75km (47 miles) northeast of Denizli airport, 25km (16 miles) northeast of Denizli; 652km (404 miles) south of Istanbul; 231km (143 miles) southeast of Izmir; 300km (186 miles) northeast of Bodrum
Until a few years ago, the cliff-side travertines that had become the poster child of Pamukkale were more like a slushy roadside pile of yesterday's snow. The terraces are the result of thousands of years of deposits left by calcium-rich natural springs coursing down the mountain. (In nearby Karahayit, springs rich in iron and sulfur leave reddish metallic deposits at the point of exit.) But years of irresponsible tourism had turned this wonder of nature into a dismal theme park attraction, until finally, in desperation, the Turkish authorities called in UNESCO for backup. In an ever-evolving geological environment, it's normal that these natural springs would find new outlets, and part of UNESCO's efforts have been to divert the springs to different sections on a rotating basis to restore much-needed calcium to the upper layers of the travertines. In the 6 years since their efforts began, much of the site has been restored to its original blinding whiteness. The travertine terraces, in concert with the plateau housing the ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis, now make up a national park as well as a World Heritage Site, and a visit to one would not be complete without a look at the other.
Although the cloudy white mountainside continues to act as a magnet for thousands and thousands of tourists on day excursions, the only way to really appreciate the region is to spend an afternoon basting in the local mineral-rich waters. This is a spa town, after all. For now, tourists can swim in the Sacred Pool within the courtyard of the former Pamukkale Thermal or in one of the more deluxe facilities in nearby Karahayit. The village of Karahayit has its own modest terraces (more like mounds), and the water over on that side of the plateau is at least 55°F (about 13°C) warmer than the pools of Pamukkale (except for the Colossae Hotel, which takes its source from Pamukkale). The best time to go is after the tour-bus season, during the crisp but gorgeously sunny days of fall, when you can still take advantage of some of the outdoor thermal pools without the unwanted company.
