Nightlife

By the time evening rolls around, the temperature of the thermal pools has finally reached blissful levels of heat that suck the life right out of you, and at this point, you're way too drained to even think about going out.

The local hotels recognize this deficiency and have eagerly come to the rescue. Kayas Wine House comes to mind (Atatürk Cad. 3; tel. 0258/272-2267), a charming little joint with a wall of local wines, and characteristic indoor seating on carpet-covered banquettes. There's a TV screen for endless football matches, a menu of basic fare, and a list of aromatic herbs and spices for the water pipes.

Also, few realize that the travertines are open 24 hours a day so you can go up at night for eerie and romantic views of the white rock. Tickets to the site are good for a full 24 hours, so save your stub from earlier in the day and sail right in.