Active Pursuits

When it comes to active travel, Panama has always taken a back seat to its neighbor Costa Rica, a country that has done much to promote itself as an adventure-travel mecca. Yet Panama is a tropical paradise for adventure-travel enthusiasts, too, offering the same outdoor activities and landscapes as Costa Rica -- but with far fewer tourists. Yes, maybe Panama's western neighbor boasts a more developed infrastructure for active travel, but really any kind of sport or outdoor activity in Panama has at least one or two responsible and experienced tour operators that can put together an adventurous trip. A full 30% of Panama's natural habitat is protected, including the wildest jungle in all of Central America, the Darién. There are high peaks with misty cloud forests, primeval rainforest, the best bird-watching in North and Central America, white-water rivers, powdery beaches, and an underwater world packed with sea life. Plus, unlike Costa Rica, Panama is home to seven Indian groups, as well as Afro-Caribbeans and West African descendants, which provides visitors with fascinating and memorable cultural encounters.

Adventure- and active-travel journeys can be pieced together as day excursions, or your trip can be planned from start to finish by a tour operator. There are a handful of all-inclusive resorts and lodges around the country, too, which plan daily excursions that are either included in the daily rate or are an additional cost. Some of these resorts have bird-watching guides and scuba-diving pros as part of their staff; others subcontract a local outfit. When booking a vacation at an all-inclusive resort, confirm the professional certification of the resort's guides -- if you're a fastidious bird-watcher who's come all the way to Panama to see a quetzal, you'll want the finest guide available, not just a guy who likes birds.

Tour operators have local knowledge and, more importantly, they provide guides and in most cases equipment. If you are planning to focus your trip to Panama around one sport or activity, these tour operators and outfitters are your best bet.

Adventure travel carries risks, and travelers should be well aware of dangers before participating in any tour. The operators that we recommend have been chosen for their safety records and reputations, but ask questions on your own. For example, if your adventure involves boating, what kind of vessel will they use? Dugout canoe pangas are common and a colorful way to get around, but for long journeys they're uncomfortable, wet, and dangerous in choppy water; also, few local boat drivers carry radios or safety equipment.

Tips on Etiquette & Safety in the Wilderness

Adventure travel is inherently riskier than travel by cruise ship or on a tour bus, and you should prepare yourself not only physically; you should also double-check your medical coverage and insurance policies.

It's hot in Panama day and night. However, higher up in the Chiriquí Highlands it gets chilly in the evening, especially if you're in the rainforest and have gotten wet. Even during the summer, the cloud forest here (as well as the Caribbean Coast in general) is damp throughout the year, so bring rain gear and a couple of extra layers of dry clothing if you plan to be outdoors all day.

On the other hand, the equatorial sun is very strong and you can burn fast, so liberally apply a high-factor sunscreen. Bug bites are so common that I recommend you buy a pleasant-smelling but powerful repellent and apply it every day if you are visiting any area outside of Panama City. The beaches in Panama are lovely, but lurking in the sand are chitras, or no-see-ums, that leave an irritating welt. Deep in the jungle, chiggers burrow into your skin and leave an itching welt that lasts for 2 weeks. Bring along cortisone or Benadryl cream to soothe itching, and try not to scratch your bites, which can lead to sores and infections; also, the welt goes away faster if you leave it alone.

Panama is home to some of the most frightening snakes on the planet, such as boa constrictors and fer-de-lances, though on the whole, snake bites are rare. Still, don't go poking under rocks or fallen branches, and always scan the trail in front of you for any slithering menace. If you encounter a snake, don't panic or make any sudden movements, and don't try to handle the snake. Also, avoid swimming in rivers unless you know it is safe or are with a guide who can vouch for the river's safety. Caimans and crocodiles hide along shorelines, especially in mangrove swamps and river mouths.

Responsible travel tips: Always tread lightly and pack everything out with you when in the wilderness -- this means everything, including toilet paper. Do not uproot plants or take flowers, especially wild orchids. Do not buy anything that is made of animal skin or shells, and do not eat seafood such as lobster during mating season from March to July. Be wary of hotels or outfits that call themselves "eco-anything," as the term here has yet to be properly defined or regulated. I've seen hotels that call themselves "eco" for no other reason than that they are located in the forest. Some small-scale hotels in Panama are blazing the trail for sustainable tourism and have been quite successful at it, but unfortunately, others cling to wasteful and damaging practices.

Ecologically Oriented Volunteer & Study Programs

The following are a few institutions and nonprofit groups that work on sustainable development or other environmental or social projects in Panama.

Global Vision International (tel. 800/776-0188; www.earthwatch.org) is a U.K.-based organization that provides support and services to charities, NGOs, and governmental agencies for conservation and humanitarian projects. In Panama, they offer a 2-week volunteer program at two turtle-nesting sites in Bocas del Toro. Volunteers tag, measure, and monitor turtles -- and pay $1,525 to do so, sleeping in rustic huts. The program runs from March to mid-June.

Habitat for Humanity International (tel. 202/628-9171 in the U.S., or 263-3035; www.habitat.org) is a nonprofit, nondenominational Christian volunteer organization that builds homes around the world for needy people. Habitat began two housing projects in 2003 in Panama at Altos de la Colina and Chilibre. They accept volunteer workers; however, volunteers are expected to pay for all living costs including food and housing, as well as the flight to Panama.

Summit Garden & Zoo (tel. 232-4850; www.summitpanama.org) has volunteer programs working in animal care or environmental education, as well as in their botanical garden, providing opportunities to learn about Panamanian flora and fauna and conservation issues, pick up new skills, and generally help the park through its renovation that began in 2006.