Horseback-riding outfits are sparsely distributed throughout the country, and there is no single lodge that focuses solely on riding with the exception of Hacienda del Toro (tel. 757-9158; www.haciendadeltoro.com), which offers short rides only, not full-day excursions. Still, it's a solid operation with high-quality horses. One of the best places to ride is in El Valle with Mitzila (tel. 6646-5813); she and her team charge $4 per hour and operate daily. Trails here wind through thick forest, offering some wide-open panoramas. They have guides, but speak limited English. In Boquete, horses can be rented from Eduardo Cano (tel. 270-1750) for $5 an hour for tours around the surrounding countryside. Horseback riding here takes place along mountain paths that provide riders with sweeping vistas of the Boquete valley. Eduardo speaks Spanish only, so depending on your own facility with el español, have your hotel make arrangements.