Getting Around

By Plane

Travelers with a tight schedule or little patience for long hours in a bus can fly cheaply and conveniently via one of two national airlines, Air Panama (tel. 316-9000; www.flyairpanama.com) and Aeroperlas (tel. 315-7500; www.aeroperlas.com). Both companies have daily scheduled flights to most major destinations in Panama, and both have similar levels of service and quality of planes. If you are arriving in Panama City and plan to head straight out on a national flight to another destination, keep in mind that you must transfer from the Tocumen Airport to the Albrook Airport, about 45 minutes away.

More remote destinations in Panama can be reached by scheduled or charter flights aboard a small plane, which touches down on a dirt airstrip. Airlines charge a 5% tax on all flights. Most problematic on domestic flights are weight restrictions, which are 25 pounds for checked baggage and 6 pounds for hand-held luggage. Overweight baggage is charged 1% of the flight cost per pound, and sometimes extra baggage may need to be sent on another flight if the total allowable excess weight of the plane has been exceeded.

By Car

Renting a car while visiting Panama City is unnecessary, and braving the chaotic city streets is only for the adventurous. A few visitors opt to rent a vehicle for the freedom to visit attractions around the city; moreover, renting a car is a lot cheaper than the cost of a private tour. In the interior regions, a car is an excellent way to see the sights at your own pace. The biggest headaches for drivers are poorly maintained side roads and lack of signage. If you're planning on traveling along country or secondary roads, or during wet, muddy conditions, consider a 4WD vehicle with high clearance, and book ahead since these vehicles sell out fast. Thrifty rents significantly cheaper 4WD vehicles than any other rental company in Panama.

Before driving off, you'll be asked to inspect the vehicle's exterior for any scrapes or dents. Be thorough with the inspection because rental agencies are often not scrupulous when it comes to noting pre-existing damages on your contract -- then you're stuck with the bill when you return the car. Also, if you are in an accident, check your bill to make sure the rental agency hasn't charged you more than your deductible.

To rent a car, you'll need a driver's license from your country of residence, your passport, and a major credit card. Drivers must by law be 23 years old to rent; however, most agencies require drivers to be 25 years or older.

Note: It is always cheaper to reserve a vehicle online or from your own country than to book a vehicle upon arrival in Panama.

Among the agencies operating in Panama are: Avis (tel. 800/230-4898 in the U.S., or 278-9444; www.avis.com); Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S., or 263-8777; www.budgetpanama.com); Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 in the U.S., or 260-2111; www.hertz.com); National (tel. 800/227-7368 in the U.S., or 265-2222; www.nationalpanama.com); Payless (tel. 800/582-7432 in the U.S., or 222-1881; www.payless.com.pa); Thrifty (tel. 800/847-4389 in the U.S., or 264-2613; www.thrifty.com).

Road Conditions -- The Carretera Panamericana (Pan-American Highway) runs from Costa Rica at the Paso Canoa border to the end of the line at Yaviza, in the Darién. This highway is four lanes around major population areas and two lanes in other areas -- and for the most part it's in good shape. Major road improvements and maintenance on secondary roads are usually politically motivated, not to mention erratic; rain and tropical sun also play their parts in the quick deterioration of roads. On secondary roads, prepare yourself for lots of crunchy gravel and potholes. Also keep an eye out for livestock grazing along the shoulder.

Renter's Insurance -- Before leaving home, check to see if your own car-insurance policy covers you when abroad, and if this coverage extends to other persons driving the vehicle, if your policy covers liability to injured outside parties, and whether the type of vehicle you're renting is covered. Rental agencies charge $12 a day for liability insurance.

Your credit card, if used when renting, may protect you from damages -- but not liability. Call your credit card company for details, but usually your credit card will cover you for damages or theft of the vehicle, or cover the deductible if you already hold car insurance.

Maps -- Detailed, reliable maps are hard to come by in Panama. Bookstores, some hotel gift shops, and travel agencies sell Kevin Healey's "Panama Travel Reference Map" (ITMB Publishing), the best route map currently available. It's not widely available in Panama, so it's best to order before you leave (www.itmb.com). Distances on maps can be deceiving, considering how much the roads curve and pass over hills; also, poor road conditions will cause you to slow down frequently.

The most frustrating aspect of driving in the country is the almost total lack of signs. You'll want to pay special attention to kilometer distances listed on maps to make sure you're turning off at the correct exit. If you choose to drive at night on country lanes, you'll doubtless get lost as tiny, nameless villages ghost by. Therefore, it's recommended that you drive during the day.

By Bus

Bus travel is the cheapest form of transportation in Panama, and service is available to all distant corners of the country. Buses are not large coaches but rather "maxivans" that seat around 10 to 25 people, so expect a reasonable level of comfort but nothing as fancy as reclining seats. All buses that head to the interior leave from Panama City's Albrook Terminal, which is about a $2 taxi ride from downtown. Buses to major towns such as David or Valle de Anton leave more or less on the hour or half-hour throughout the day. Excepting buses headed to Costa Rica, bus service operates on a first-come, first-served basis.

Two companies offer service to and from Costa Rica: Tica Bus (tel. 314-6385; www.ticabus.com) and Panaline (tel. 227-8648). Both companies have large, air-conditioned coaches. Tica Bus leaves for San José at 11am, Panaline leaves at 12:30pm; the cost is $50 round-trip. Tip: Remember that the border-control authorities in both Costa Rica and Panama require proof of onward travel -- if you don't have it, you'll be required to buy a round-trip ticket even if you don't plan to use the return portion. It is a good idea to buy your ticket to Costa Rica in advance, especially around holidays.