Tips On Dining

Panama is a melting pot of cultures and ethnic groups, and the dining scene here reflects this, especially in Panama City. International restaurants such as Italian, Swiss, Chinese, Middle Eastern, and creative, fusion-style eateries please more sophisticated palates and are plentiful. There are a lot of solid choices for cheap dining, too, and the usual fast-food chains abound.

Tourist-friendly destinations such as Boquete are home to several outstanding restaurants. Outside of major cities and tourist destinations, travelers will find mostly traditional Panamanian food that is heavy on seafood -- primarily pargo (red snapper), corvina (sea bass), langostina (jumbo shrimp), calamari, and pulpo (octupus). Panamanian fare is quite good, though there isn't much diversity, and meat and seafood are always paired with the ubiquitous coconut rice and beans, a small cabbage salad, and patacones (fried green plantains).

If you've booked at a remote lodge or an all-inclusive resort, chances are the only place to dine is within the hotel's own restaurant. Most ecolodges do not beckon romantics with a candlelit table for two -- meals are normally served family-style, with a buffet and common dining table that fosters conversation with other guests. This can be a good or bad thing, depending on who the other guests are. Ecolodge meals range from insipid to inspired -- some chefs have mastered the art of quality meals in spite of the remote location, others fall back on fried foods and rice and beans.

For inexpensive dining, Panama has dinerlike cafeterías that serve a set meal called comida corriente, which consists of an appetizer or soup, main course, and usually a beverage; these generally cost from $3 to $5. Panaderías are bakeries and a good bet for a modest breakfast of a pastry and coffee; some even have tables.

Restaurants in Panama typically begin serving breakfast between 7 and 8am; lunch runs from noon to 3pm, and dinner from 6 to 10pm. In Panama City, some restaurants stay open until 11pm or midnight. Lodges that cater to early-to-rise, early-to-bed bird-watchers serve breakfast at 6am, and dinner at 7pm. In provincial towns dinner is early, starting at 6 or 7pm, and often the kitchen is closed by 9pm -- so plan on early dining.

Restaurants accept reservations but they are really only necessary for Panama City's finer establishments or at intimate eateries with just a few tables. And even if you just show up, you usually have to wait only a bit at the bar for a table, or you'll luck out and be ushered to a table right away.

Tipping is a customary 10% of the total bill. Note: Avoid overtipping and check the breakdown of charges on your bill, because many restaurants automatically charge a 10% service fee as a tip. The tax on restaurant bills is 5%.

Grocery stores around the country are well-stocked with local and imported products; some towns even boast an organic or gourmet supermarket. The national chain El Rey opens early and closes late, and in some major towns and cities the supermarket is open 24 hours.

Restaurant listings in this guide are divided into three price categories, based on the average price of a meal, excluding beverages and tip: Expensive, more than $20; Moderate, $10 to $20; and Inexpensive, less than $10.