Getting to Know Paradores of Puerto Rico

Jayuya--The village of Jayuya, southwest of San Juan and north of Ponce, lies in the middle of the Cordillera Central, a mountain massif. From San Juan, travel west along Highway 22, going past the town of Barceloneta until you come to the junction of Route 140; head south to the town of Florida, passing through some of the most dramatic scenery in Puerto Rico. Continue along Route 140 until you come to the junction of Route 141, signposted southwest into Jayuya.

Jayuya is a small town that still retains strong Taíno cultural influences, particularly in the language. At the Jayuya Indian Festival in mid-November, you'll see crafts markets, parades, and displays of Taíno dances. The festival honors the patron saint of the town, Nuestra Señora la Monserrate.

Here you'll also find the Parador Hacienda Gripiñas , a former coffee plantation, where you can glimpse the good old days on Puerto Rico. In 1950 Jayuya received worldwide attention when independentistas proclaimed the "Republic of Puerto Rico" and held the town under siege until the National Guard was called in.

UtuadoAnother good base in the Cordillera Central massif is the little mountain town of Utuado, which lies northwest of Jayuya . This is the heartland of karst, an irregular limestone terrain with sinkholes, underground streams, and caverns. This unique landscape was created over several millennia by heavy rainfall. Utuado is a stronghold of jibaro ("hillbilly") culture, reflecting the mountain life of the island as few other settlements do.

Petroglyphs left over from the Taíno civilization have been found in the area. One depicted an Indian woman with frog legs and an elaborate headdress. From Utuado, you can continue west for 20 miles (32km) on Route 111 to km 12.3, to reach the Taíno Indian Ceremonial Center.

Quebridillas--Quebradillas is one of the sleepy municipalities of northwest Puerto Rico. With its flamboyantly painted houses, narrow streets, and spiritualist herb shops, it is like a town of long ago. Quebradillas lies 70 miles (113km) west of San Juan, only about a 15-mile (24km) trip from the city of Arecibo along Route 2.

The Atlantic waters along the northwest coast of Puerto Rico tend to be rough, with the rugged coastline seemingly plunging right into the ocean. Both snorkelers and scuba divers are drawn to a protected beach area known as "The Shacks," close to the town of Isabela, northwest of Quebradillas. The reefs and coral caverns here are some of the most dramatic in Puerto Rico. Surfers also flock to Isabela's Jobos Beach. Neither beach, however, is ideal for swimming.

Also northwest of Quebradillas lies beautiful Guajataca Beach, with its white sands, raging surf, and turbulent, deep waters. This is a fine beach for sunning and collecting shells, but it's a playa peligrosa (dangerous beach) unless you're a skilled swimmer. You can also visit Lago de Guajataca, another beautiful spot, by heading south for 7 miles (11km) on Route 113. This man-made lake is a lovely place for hiking, and it's the site of two paradores. The staff at these government-sponsored inns will give you advice about jaunts in the Guajataca Forest Reserve to the immediate west.

Isabela--On the northwestern coast, a 1 1/2-hour drive west of San Juan, the town of Isabela captures the flavor of the west, although it's far less known by visitors than Rincón and Mayagüez. Its pastel-colored, whitewashed houses border the sea, known for its surfing and swimming beaches.

The locals don't survive on tourism, but on such industries as shoemaking and textiles. In spite of manufacturing, many small farms still dot the area.

Tragedy has struck repeatedly in the area because of the geographical location of Isabela, which has made it the victim of both tidal waves and earthquakes since it was first settled.

Isabela enjoys a reputation for horse breeding. This activity is centered around Arenales, south of the town, where a number of horse stables are located.

The area abounds in good beaches, including Jobos Beach, directly west of Isabela on Route 466. The beach is set against a backdrop of cliffs, the most dramatic of which is El Pozo de Jacinto. Nearby at a beach called "The Shacks," both snorkelers and scuba divers enjoy swimming among the reefs, teeming with rainbow-hued fish and the coral caverns.

Coamo--Legend has it that the hot springs in this town, located inland on the south coast about a 2-hour drive from San Juan, were the Fountain of Youth sought by Ponce de Léon. It is believed that the Taino peoples, puring pre-Columbian times, held rituals and pilgrimages here as they sought heath and well-being. Between 1847 and 1958, the site was a center for rest and relaxation for Puerto Ricans and others, some on their honeymoons, others in search of the curative powers of the geothermal springs, which lie about a 5-minute walk from Parador Baños de Coamo. Nonguests can come here to use the baths, but the experience is hardly special today. The baths are in poor condition.