Active Pursuits

The "Beach" of Paris

Relaxing under a palm tree on a chaise lounge sounds more Caribbean than Parisian, but a nearly 4.8km (3-mile) stretch of sandy shore has opened along the Seine. With the Eiffel Tower looming in the background, visitors and locals can splash in fountains, swing in hammocks, play volleyball, or enjoy a picnic. Just don't go into the polluted water of the murky Seine. The Paris beach opened in the late summer of 2003, after tons of sand were poured into concrete bases along the river.

Cycling

Bicycling through the streets and parks of Paris, perhaps with a baguette tucked under your arm, might have become your fantasy after seeing your first Maurice Chevalier film. In recent years, the city has added many miles of right-hand lanes designated for cyclists, as well as hundreds of bike racks. (When these aren't available, many Parisians simply chain their bikes to fences or lampposts.) Cycling is especially popular in the larger parks and gardens.

Following a model set by Copenhagen, Paris in 2007 became a cycling town. Thousands of bikes became available at hundreds of self-service docking stations, with the introduction of Vélib bikes. Bikes are available at more than 1,000 stations scattered throughout central Paris.

The Vélib system is simple: You swipe your credit card in a kiosk by the bike stand. The first half hour is free; after that, you pay 1€ for another 30 minutes, 2€ for the next 30 minutes, and 4€ for each remaining half-hour you use the bike. You can leave the cycle at any Vélib station in Paris.

When you swipe the card, the system takes a 150€ deposit to ensure the bike's safe return. The Métro stops running around 1am, but Vélib kiosks are open all night.

Bikes are one size fits all, with adjustable seats; children 13 and younger are not permitted to use the cycles. Maps showing the locations of Vélib stations throughout Paris are available at the city hall in each of the 20 arrondissements. For more information, call tel. 01-30-79-79-30, or see www.velib.paris.fr.

Some of the best-orchestrated bike tours in Paris are conducted in English and offered by Fat Tire Bike Tours (tel. 01-56-58-10-54; www.fattirebiketoursparis.com); they depart from a spot that's immediately adjacent to the south leg (pilier sud) of the Eiffel Tower. (Look for a large yellow sign advertising the tours.) Between mid-February and mid-December, bike tours depart daily at 11am, and between May and September, an additional tour is offered at 3:30pm. Between April and October, a night tour is also offered, departing at 7pm from the same spot. The cost of any tour includes use of a bike and a protective helmet. Hint: If you're interested in participating in one of these bike tours, we recommend that you schedule your ascent to the upper levels of the Eiffel Tower for either immediately before or after your bike tour and that you arrive in clothing appropriate for a two-wheeled, self-propelled jaunt through the monumental avenues of central Paris. The cost is 24€ per person for the day tour and 28€ for the night tour. The night tour is more festive than the day tour and includes a complimentary ride aboard the bateaux mouches, the big-windowed panoramic boats that chug along the Seine beneath some of the most famous bridges in Europe.

Horse Racing

Paris boasts an army of avid horse-racing fans who get to the city's eight racetracks whenever possible. Information on current races is available in newspapers and magazines such as Tierce, Paris-Turf, France-Soir, and L'Equipe, all sold at kiosks throughout the city.

The epicenter of Paris horse racing is the Hippodrome de Longchamp, in the Bois de Boulogne, 16e (tel. 01-44-30-75-00; RER or Métro: Porte Maillot and then a free shuttle bus on race days only). Established in 1855, during the autocratic but pleasure-loving reign of Napoleon III, it's the most prestigious track, boasts the greatest number of promising thoroughbreds, and awards the largest purse in France. The most important events at Longchamp are the Grand Prix de Paris in late June and the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe in early October.

Another racing venue is the Hippodrome d'Auteuil, also in the Bois de Boulogne (tel. 01-40-71-47-47; Métro: Porte Auteuil; then walk). Known for its steeplechases and obstacle courses, it sometimes attracts more than 50,000 Parisians at a time. Spectators appreciate the park's promenades as much as they do the equestrian events. Races are conducted from early March to late November.

Ice Skating

In the deep of winter (usually around Christmas to February), Paris officials set up two huge outdoor rinks, each of which is free, though you'll pay 4€ for skate rental. The best is in front of the Hotel de Ville in the 4th (Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville). It's open Monday to Thursday noon to 10pm, Friday noon to midnight, and Sunday 9am to 10pm. Smaller and not as attractive is the one on the esplanade facing the ugly old Gare Montparnasse in the 14th (Métro: Montparnasse). It's open Monday to Friday noon to 8pm and Saturday and Sunday 9am to 8pm.

Jogging

The French call jogging le footing, and it is not as popular here as in such cities as Los Angeles and New York. The most popular place for jogging is along the quays of the Seine. Of course, you might have to suck in a few exhaust fumes along the way.

Our favorite route is the Promenade Plantée starting east of the Bastille and continuing all the way to the Bois de Vincennes on the converted and now green rooftop of the old train trestle route. The entrance is just behind the opera house at Bastille along avenue Daumesnil where a staircase climbs to this long, narrow "green lung" of Paris.

Other spots are around the lakes in the Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes. You might also try Hemingway's favorite Jardin du Luxembourg where he strolled, not jogged.

Public Swimming Pools

Paris offers some three dozen public swimming pools called piscines. They are found throughout the city, and a complete list of them is available if you surf www.sport.paris.fr to find one near your hotel. Admission to all these municipal pools is 3€; you can also purchase a carnet granting 10 visits for 24€.

Our favorite Right Bank pool is Suzanne Berlioux, 10 place de la Rotonde, Forum des Halles in the 1st (tel. 01-42-36-98-44; Métro: Les Halles). This vast pool is in the underground forum with a wall of windows for natural light. On the Left Bank, St-Germain is a standout, at 12 rue Lobineau in the 6th (tel. 01-56-81-25-40; Métro: Mabillon). This 25m (82-ft.) pool is in a modern underground space near Marché St-Germain.