Hotels

Naturally, the most visited city in the world boasts an overwhelming number of hotels, which range from mythical palaces including the Ritz and the Crillon to dives so repellent that even George Orwell, author of Down and Out in Paris and London, wouldn't have considered checking in. (Of course, you won't find those in this guide!) We include deluxe places for those who can afford to live like the sultan of Brunei, as well as a wide range of moderate and budget choices for the rest of us.

Price Categories

Very Expensive - 400€ and up

Expensive - 220€-400€

Moderate - 120€-220€

Inexpensive - Under 120€

What You'll Really Pay

The prices quoted here are for hotels' rack rate, the maximum that it charges; it is, however, unlikely that you'll end up paying that rate in Paris unless you arrive during Fashion Weeks (early Mar, late Sept), or the major trade fairs (Sept, Oct). Spring is also very busy. You can typically find discounts of up to 20% for rooms when booking through the agencies or through websites such as booking.com. In March 2011, a room at the Best Western Regent's Garden (rack rates start at 290€) was snagged on Booking.com for 140€. During slow times (high summer and winter), it's not impossible to obtain a room at an expensive property for the same rate as a more moderate one. Rack rates at Pigalle's Villa Royale start at 239€, but in January 2011, just a cursory search of the usual Web discount sites revealed that the going rate was actually closer to 147€.

Sometimes all you have to do is contact the hotel directly and negotiate. For example, one week in March, the Hostellerie du Marais was advertising a weekday rate of 190€ on its own website, but a spot check of the major discounters (Priceline, Hotels.com, Expedia, Booking.com) yielded a price of 149€. When I told the hotel what I'd been quoted online, I was offered the same rate on the spot.

Note: Quoted discount rates almost never include breakfast, hotel tax, or any applicable resort fees.

The Hotel Scene

As in most large cities, accommodation choices in Paris vary widely. France rates its hotels by an official government star system, which is based on a complex formula of room sizes, facilities, plumbing, elevators, dining options, renovations, and so on. In the past, hotels ranged from one star (for a simple inn) to four stars (for a luxury hotel), but in July 2012, this star-rating system will change to a five-star classification, putting it more in line with international standards. In one-star hotels, the bathrooms can be shared, the facilities are extremely limited (such as no elevator), the rooms may not have phones or TVs, and breakfast is often the only meal served. Despite limited amenities, they may be perfectly clean and decent places. Two- or three-star hotels usually have elevators, and rooms will likely have bathrooms, phones, and TVs. In four- and five-star establishments, you'll get all the amenities plus facilities and services such as room service, concierges, elevators, and perhaps even health clubs. Do remember that the system can be deceptive, and a charming two-star hotel in a historic building can be more appealing than a brand-new three-star hotel with all the amenities.

Because hot weather rarely lasts long in Paris, air-conditioning is not a standard feature in the city's hotels. If you're trapped in a garret on a hot summer night, you'll have to sweat it out. Noise can be an issue too, particularly in those rooms facing the street. Check if a room has double-glazed windows or ask for a room off the street. Expect rooms to be small unless you pay for a suite. Some hotel websites explain the differences between different room categories by including average room surface. Beds are usually standard doubles, or queen size for superior rooms and the pricier hotels; it's rare to find a king-size bed. Be warned that you'll have to carry your bags to and from your room in most hotels -- don't expect to find bellboys unless you're staying at a luxury hotel. Free Wi-Fi in rooms has become a standard offer for most hotels.

Getting the Best Deal

If you're looking for budget options, Paris has some good-value places in the lower price ranges, and we've included reviews for the best of these properties in this section.

Prices dip during Paris's low season over winter from November to February. The height of summer, during July and August, can be quiet too. Most visitors, at least those from North America, come to Paris at this time, but many French people are on vacation, and trade fairs and conventions come to a halt, so there are usually plenty of rooms available. Peak periods are from March to July and September to November; the major trade show season in September and October; and seasonal events like Fashion Week in early March and late September. Book ahead if you come during these times. If you arrive without a reservation, you may have to take what you can get, often at a much higher price than you'd like. It's true that you can almost always get a room at a deluxe hotel if you're willing to pay the price.

Online travel booking sites offer considerable discounts off of room rates. Check sites like Expedia, Priceline, ebookers.com, hotels.com, venere.com, france-hotel-guide.com, or booking.com to find discount rates on hotel rooms.

Reservation Services

Most hotels require a credit card number to confirm a reservation. You can usually cancel a room reservation one week ahead of time without paying a deposit. A few hotel keepers will return your money up to 3 days before the reservation date, but some will keep a deposit, even if you cancel far in advance. To secure special Internet deals, you often must pay up-front. If you'd prefer someone to take care of the details for you, check out Mondiale Tourisme (tel. 01-42-46-83-29; www.mondialfrance.com), a Paris-based travel agency with an international team and 15 years of experience booking vacations both in Paris and throughout France.

Alternative Accommodations

More intimate than a hotel, a bed-and-breakfast within a private home can be an affordable and interesting option. The Hôtes Qualité Paris (www.hotesqualiteparis.fr) is the city's official agency for professional B&Bs in selected private homes; it offers rooms for about 50€ to 140€ per person per night, based on double occupancy. Alcôve and Agapes (tel. 01-44-85-06-05; www.bed-and-breakfast-in-paris.com) is a reliable private agency that promotes upmarket B&B accommodations in Paris. These services provide a bridge between travelers who seek rooms in private homes and Parisians who wish to welcome visitors. Most hosts speak at least some English, range in age from 30 to 75, and have at least some points of view about entertainment and dining options within the neighborhood. Available options include individual bedrooms, usually within large, old-fashioned private apartments, as well as "unhosted" accommodations where the apartment is otherwise empty and without the benefit (or restrictions) of a live-in host.

If you'd prefer to live like an expat, it is also possible to rent an apartment in Paris. A number of agencies lease apartments that are centrally located, furnished, and well-equipped; short- or long-term rentals are available. To rent an apartment in Paris, contact one of the following agencies: Paris Attitude (tel. 01-42-96-31-46; www.parisattitude.com); Parisian Home (tel. 01-45-08-03-37; www.parisianhome.com); France Lodge (tel. 01-56-33-85-85; www.francelodge.fr); Paris Appartements Services (tel. 01-56-33-85-85; www.paris-appartements-services.com); Appartement de Ville (tel. 01-40-28-01-28; www.appartementdeville.com); or Flip Key (www.flipkey.com). Through these organizations, you will likely deal with the agency (not the owners), and the minimum stay is usually 1 week.

It is possible to get a good deal at an aparthotel, a cross between a hotel and an apartment. Short on charm, these rentals are good on convenience, each with a kitchenette. Although rates are more than short-term studios, you get more of the services of a hotel, including fresh towels and a reception desk. The best known agency renting aparthotels is Citadines (tel. 08-25-33-33-32; www.citadines.com). The cheapest rentals are the studios with pull-out beds; a studio for two might range from 140€ to 250€ a night -- or even more in such highly prized locations as the Louvre area or St-Germain-des-Prés.

Finally, it's a bit riskier than the previously inspected and approved recommendations, bu it is possible to rent cheap apartments independently. To do so, checking out the classified ads in FUSAC (France-USA Contacts; www.fusac.com), a free biweekly magazine that is widely distributed in bookstores, cafes, and restaurants catering to English-speaking visitors.