What's New

In a jittery world and with an uncertain economy, Paris remains one of the most visited places on the planet. Travelers, of course, come to revisit Paris's glorious past, as reflected in its art and architecture, but they are also intrigued by the City of Light's cutting-edge style, cuisine, and fashion. Here are some of the latest developments in the ever-changing metropolis:

Accommodations

Visitors by the thousands to Paris are seeking alternatives to hotels and staying in private apartments or even a private home. Of course, these rental outlets are more suited for those who want to spend a week or more in Paris instead of the hurried visitor. Even so, some rentals require only a 3-night minimum. In this edition, we've surveyed the agencies, such as Good Morning Paris, that offer the best deals. With one of these rentals, you can live in the City of Light like a Parisian.

That doesn't mean that there aren't plenty of hotels, some better than ever, continuing to open. One of the most glamorous in many a year includes Fouquet's Barrière, 46 av. George V, 8e (tel. 01-40-69-60-00), linked with the legendary cafe and restaurant that has stood on the Champs-Elysées for decades. Here you get glitz and glamour, with one butler to every eight guests.

A Left Bank boutique hotel, The Five Hotel, has opened at 3 rue Flatters, 5e (tel. 01-43-31-74-21), luring fashionistas to the Latin Quarter. It's in a restored 19th-century town house, and is a bold (some say too bold) statement in individual design. It's a lot of fun if you like Chinese lacquer.

Another Left Bank restoration is the Prince de Conti, 39 rue de Seine, 6e (tel. 01-43-26-71-56), in the heart of St-Germain-des-Prés. The 18th-century town house has been completely modernized. Much of the carved stone walls and arches were retained, but the amenities are 21st century.

Dining

One of the most celebrated chefs of Paris, Guy Martin, is still in charge at the chic Grand Véfour, but he's opened his own Left Bank bistro at Sensing, 19 rue Bréa, 6e (tel. 01-43-27-08-80). For his decor, he chose video projections on the walls. A finely honed modern French cuisine is served in an atmosphere dedicated to the five senses.

Serious foodies are heading for the 9th arrondissement to sample the Provençal and Corsican cuisine at Casa Olympe, 48 rue St-Georges, 9e (tel. 01-42-85-26-01). This is the citadel of the Michelin-starred Olympe Versini, who dazzles you with the earthiness and goodness of her cuisine. She deserves her wide acclaim in her new location.

Some of the best restaurants today lie far from the tourist haunts -- take Le Chateaubriand, 129 av. Parmentier, 11e (tel. 01-43-57-45-95), for example. Inaki Aizpitarte, the owner-chef, calls his 1930s-looking place a neo-bistro, and delights palates with his modern French cuisine, some of it inspired by his native Basque country.

Chef Alain Ducasse has opened yet another place, this one, Le Relais du Parc, in the Hotel Sofitel Le Parc, 55-57 av. Raymond-Poincaré, 16e (tel. 01-44-05-66-10). In fair weather you dine alfresco under magnolia trees in a courtyard, feasting off such fare as pigeon with cabbage and foie gras, or even wild hare from the Loire Valley.

Exploring

Paris's latest major museum opening is the inauguration of La Cité de L'Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1 place du Trocadéro, 16e (tel. 01-58-51-52-00). Lying in the east wing of the Palais de Chaillot, the site is the largest architectural museum in the world, with exhibits devoted to 12 centuries of French architecture, even reproductions of the famous stained glass windows in the cathedral city of Chartres.

More and more modern art devotees from around the world are discovering the Palais de Tokyo, 13 av. de Président Wilson, 16e (tel. 01-47-23-54-01), which in a series of changing exhibits displays the most avant-garde art in Europe. The art is so fresh here it's called "up-to-the-minute." We never thought we'd see this happen in Paris, but the museum also stays open until midnight. Art is just one of the cultural venues here: expect fashion shows, sculpture exhibits, and various artistic performances such as dance.

Shopping

In the Marais, one of the most unusual jewelry stores in Paris, Bijoux Blues, 30 rue St. Paul, 4e (tel. 01-48-04-00-64), has opened to sell beautifully designed jewelry, often made with natural or semi-precious stones, including mother-of-pearl. The staff sells at what it calls "atelier prices."

After Dark

The nightlife scene in Paris continues to explode, especially for those younger than 35. Bars are no longer a place to drop in for a drink, but a venue for the evening. Take 7 Lézards, at 10 rue de Rosiers, 4e (tel. 012-48-87-08-95), for example. It's a tearoom/bar/restaurant with a downstairs cellar hosting some of the best jazz concerts in Paris.

No club is getting more media exposure than Le Baron, 6 av. Marceau, 8e (tel. 01-47-20-04-01), a bastion of cool housed in a former brothel. The dance floor is one of the most packed in Paris for the Gucci crowd.

The African influence is all the rage, notably at Andy Whaloo, 69 rue des Gravilliers, 3e (tel. 01-42-74-03-41). As you sit on Moroccan rugs or smoke a hookah, you'll think you've been transported to a souk in North Africa.

Versailles

Getting to Versailles and avoiding the long lines has been made easier. You can purchase a combined RER train fare and château entrance at the same time, which means with this ticket you can avoid the snakelike lines at the entrance to the palace. Called a forfeit, it's a real deal at 21€ (US$30).