What's New

In a jittery world and with an uncertain economy, Paris remains one of the most visited places on the planet. Travelers, of course, come to revisit Paris's glorious past, as reflected in its art and architecture, but they are also intrigued by the City of Light's cutting-edge style, cuisine, and fashion. Here are some of the latest developments in an ever-changing world metropolis:

Accommodations

The hotel getting all the press is the provocatively named Hotel Amour, 8 rue de Navarin, 9e (tel. 01-48-78-31-80), where doubles begin at $117. It is centrally located just off the rue des Martyrs, currently the hippest street in Paris. You join the starlets and bright young things checking in here. Walk up the steps to the bedrooms (there's no elevator). The beds are so incredibly comfortable we asked about them, only to learn they come from the same company that supplies the Ritz. Expect to encounter an oddball charm and comfort food served on site, including steak frites.

The film, Amélie, first made the Goutte d'Or neighborhood of Montmartre world famous. Thousands continue to flock to this up-and-coming sector because that movie was shot in the area. It was inevitable that some entrepreneur would open a hotel there. But what a hotel. Kube Rooms & Bars, 1-5 Passage Ruelle, 18e (tel. 01-42-05-20-00), is unique in Paris. Design-savvy clients check into this cube, "the most modern of shapes," according to the owners. Their reception area was inspired by the architecturally controversial glass box in front of the Louvre. Rectangular beds are lit from below and appear to levitate. Expect shag-covered sofas and faux fur throws. The Ice Kube Bar is made with -- you guessed it -- ice. Guests stay in here for half an hour before deep freeze sets in. Instead of room keys, guests are electronically fingerprinted.

Dining

The most famous restaurateur in Paris, Claude Terrail, owner of La Tour d'Argent, 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (tel. 01-43-54-23-31), died in the summer of 2006, at the age of 88. His restaurant, once hailed as the best in Europe, is still known for its duck specialties, its vast wine cellar, and its spectacular views of the River Seine (as well as Notre-Dame). Over the years he hosted such notables as Queen Elizabeth II, President John F. Kennedy, and Marilyn Monroe. His death is not expected to have a lasting effect on the restaurant. By 2003, he'd already handed over management to his son, André, though Terrail came in every day for lunch and dinner until his death.

Because of a bad economy, Paris in 2006 and early 2007 didn't see the rash of good restaurant openings that it usually does. However, in the 8th Arrondissement, Citrus Etoile, 6 rue Arsène Houssaye (tel. 01-42-89-15-51), attracted serious foodies to its excellent French food served at moderate -- for Paris -- prices. Chef Gilles Epié earned his fame as a private chef in Hollywood before returning to Paris with his American fashion-model wife. Together, in a minimalist background, they receive a health-conscious, trendy crowd, watching their waistlines but also demanding a cuisine prepared with razor-sharp technique.

Attractions

In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, the museum getting all the press is Jean Nouvel's sweeping Musée du Quai Branly, 206-208 rue de l'Université, 7e (tel. 01-56-61-70-00). With an exterior wall planted with 150 exotic plant species, it is devoted to the art of Africa, the Americas, the South Pacific, and Asia. In all, nearly 300,000 tribal artifacts are on parade in this $256-million project. During its decade-long construction there were many scandals, such as when the museum's curator discovered that the terra-cotta figurines from Nigeria were stolen. Galleries stand on sculpted pillars that evoke totems. Nouvel said he wanted to "create something unique, poetic, and disturbing."

Another major opening was the long-closed Musée de l'Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries, 1er (tel. 01-44-77-80-07). Claude Monet's celebrated Nymphéas are displayed as the artist intended them to be -- that is, lit by sunlight. The spacious oval-shaped galleries evoke the shape of the garden ponds at the artist's Giverny estate. Over the years, we've come here many times to gaze upon Marie Laurencin's Portrait of Mademoiselle Chanel from 1923.

It's had a number of roles in its long life, but today the newly reopened Jeu de Paume, 1 place de la Concorde, 8e (tel. 01-47-03-12-50), is devoted to photography and video, exploring a world of images. It presents ever-changing exhibitions, many of them daringly avant-garde, and is one of the finest museums of its type in the world.

Shopping

For those who do not get their Value Added Tax (VAT) refunded in France, a new office in North America is processing and handling this tax as well as providing information for confused shoppers. Global Refund closed its New York office and now operates from Box 2020 Station, Main Brampton, Ontario L6T 353 (tel. 800/993-4313 or 905/791-9078; www.globalrefund.com).

After Dark

At last, Paris has a permanent home for its orchestras with the reopening of restored Salle Pleyel, 252 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, 8e (tel. 01-42-52-13-13). Pleyel is the Carnegie Hall of Paris. Opening first in 1927, the auditorium saw the likes of Ravel, Debussy, and Stravinsky performing their masterpieces here. Its acoustics and seating are now better than ever. The Orchestre Philharmonique de Radio France and the Orchestre de Paris now call Salle Pleyel home.