Getting Around

By Public Transport

The majority of Paris's public transport is run by RATP (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens; tel. 08-92-69-32-46, or 32-46 in France; www.ratp.fr). Paris and its suburbs are divided into six travel zones, and the city itself is covered by zones 1 and 2.

RATP tickets are valid on the Métro, bus, and RER. You can buy tickets over the counter or from machines at most Métro entrances. A single ticket costs 1.70€ and a carnet of 10 tickets costs 12€. Tourists can benefit from a Paris Visite pass, which offers unlimited travel in zones on bus, Métro, and RER, and discounts on some attractions. A 1-day pass for zones 1 to 3 costs 9.30€, 2-day pass 15€, a 3-day pass 21€ and a 5-day pass 30€. Slightly cheaper is the 1-day Mobilis ticket, which offers unlimited travel in zones 1 and 2 and costs 6.10€. For travelers under 26, look out for the Ticket Jeune, which can be used on a Saturday, Sunday, or bank holiday, and which provides unlimited travel in zones 1 to 3 for 3.40€.

If you're staying for a while, it's worth getting the Navigo Découverte, a swipe card that you can buy at most stations for 5€. You must provide a passport photo, but once you have the card it offers unlimited travel in the relevant zones. The weekly tariff (which runs Mon-Sat) for zones 1 and 2 is 18€, and the monthly tariff (which runs from the first to the last day of the month) is 60€.

By Métro (Subway)

The Métro is the fastest and most efficient way to get around Paris. All lines have a different number and color, and the final destination of each line, which will tell you which direction the train is going in, is clearly marked on subway maps, and in the system's underground passageways. The Métro runs daily from 5:30am to 12:40am (last departure at 1:30am Fri-Sat). It's reasonably safe at any hour but beware of pickpockets.

To familiarize yourself with the Métro, check out the color map on the inside back cover of this book. Most stations display a map of the Métro at the entrance. To locate your train on a map, find your destination, follow the line to the end of its route, and note the name of the final stop, which is that line's direction. In the station, follow the signs for your direction in the passageways until you come to the right platform.

To change lines follow the signs saying Correspondances, which usually indicate the numbers of the other Métro lines. Some stations such as Châtelet-Les-Halles, République and Montparnasse-Bienvenüe require long walks. Don't follow a Sortie (exit) sign, or you'll have to pay again to get back on the train.

At the turnstile entrances to the Métro, insert your ticket and pass through. Hold onto your ticket as you occasionally need it to change trains or exit a station. There are also occasional ticket checks on trains in Métro stations.

By RER

A suburban train system, RER (Réseau Express Regional), passes through the heart of Paris, traveling faster than the Métro and running daily from 5:30am to 1am. This system works like the Métro and requires the same tickets (if you stay within zones 1 and 2). The major stops on Paris's Right Bank, linking the RER to the Métro, are Nation, Gare de Lyon, St-Lazare, Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile, Gare de l'Est, Gare du Nord as well as Châtelet-Les-Halles. On the Left Bank, RER stops include Denfert-Rochereau, St-Michel, Invalides, and Champ de Mars Tour Eiffel. The five RER lines are marked A through E, and each line corresponds to a different color. Different branches are labeled by a number, for example the C5 Line serving Versailles-Rive Gauche. Electric signboards next to each track outline all the possible stops along the way. Make sure that the little square next to your intended stop is lit.

By Bus

Buses are obviously slower than the Métro. The majority run from 6:30am to 9:30pm (a few operate until 12:30am) and service is limited on Sundays and holidays. You can use Métro tickets on the buses or you can buy tickets directly from the driver (1.80€). Tickets need to be validated in the machine next to the driver's cabin.

There is usually a map of the bus route at the bus stop, which lists all of the stops, highlights which stop you are currently at, and indicates the direction of travel. Each bus route has a different number and a corresponding color. Inside the bus, the next stop is usually written on an electronic panel on the ceiling of the bus. Press the red button when you want to get off.

At night, after the bus and Métro services stop running, there are a number of night bus lines called Noctilien (www.noctilien.fr). Most of the lines leave from Place du Châtelet and pass by the main train stations, crossing the city's major streets before leaving Paris for the suburbs (Mon-Thurs every hour 12:30am-5:30am; Fri-Sat every 30 min.). Although often a little rowdy, the night buses are usually quite safe. Tickets cost 1.80€ if bought from the driver but travel passes are valid.

By Tram

Paris has three tramway lines, but these lines are currently being extended and four new lines are being added. The projects are due to be completed by the end of 2012. Line 1 runs from Saint-Denis RER station to Noisy-le-Sec; Line 2 runs from La Défense to Porte de Versailles-Parc des expositions; and Line 3 from Pont du Garigliano to Porte d'Ivry. All three lines connect to bus stops and both Métro and RER stations, and tickets are the same price as the Métro. However, because they run along the outskirts of Paris, most visitors are not likely to take them.

By Bicycle

Cycling in Paris has been revolutionized by the hugely successful Vélib' scheme (the name comes from vélo meaning bicycle and liberté meaning freedom) launched in 2007 (www.velib.paris.fr). There are now more than 20,000 bicycles available at 1,500 stations -- that's one every 300m (186 ft.) -- around Paris. The service can be accessed at any time of day and to get a bike you need to have an account. Creating one is reasonably easy to do on the machines located at every Vélib' stand, but make sure you select the English-language option before you read the instructions. You can choose either a 1-day (1€) or 7-day (5€) account (which you have to pay for using a credit card) and you will be asked to choose a PIN code. This will give you unlimited access to the Vélib' service. You then use the PIN to select a bike from the bikes available at your stand. Journeys under 30 minutes are free, and after that the price goes up by 1€ every half an hour. If you arrive at a Vélib' station to return a bike and discover it is full, you can enter your code in the machine and have 15 minutes to find another terminal. To use the services you will be asked to pay a 150€ caution (deposit), which freezes the money in your account until the bike is returned. With foreign credit cards this can sometimes take a couple of days. Note: It is preferable to cycle in cycle lanes -- there are 400km (250 miles) of green cycle paths in Paris -- and it's illegal to cycle on footpaths or down one-way streets. Remember to cycle on the right-hand side of the street and to give way to your right. Remember that the bikes do not come with helmets.

Alternatively, you can rent a bike from Paris à vélo, c'est sympa! (22 rue Alphonse Baudin; tel. 01-48-87-60-01; www.partsvelosympa.com; Métro: St-Sébastien-Froissart or Richard Lenoir). Rentals cost 12€ for half a day and 15€ for a full day, but they do require 250€ or a passport as a deposit. Open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 1pm and 2 to 6pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 7pm. Closed Tuesday.

Vintage Vespas are available for rent from Left Bank Scooters (tel. 06-78-12-04-24; www.leftbankscooters.com) for 90€ per day, and the company will deliver the scooters to your hotel or apartment. A credit card deposit of 1,200€ is required, but this can be reduced to 500€ for an additional fee. This amount is held rather than charged on a credit card.

Note that bicycles are not allowed on buses or the Métro, except on Line 1 on Sundays and public holidays, until 4:30pm. Bikes can be taken aboard all RER trains except during rush hours (Mon-Fri 6:30-9am and 4:30-7pm).

By Boat

The Batobus (tel. 08-25-05-01-01; www.batobus.com) is a 150-passenger boat that operates along the Seine, stopping at such points of interest as the Eiffel Tower, Musée d'Orsay, the Louvre, Notre-Dame, and the Hôtel de Ville. Unlike the Bateaux-Mouche, the Batobus does not provide recorded commentary. The only fare option available is a day pass valid for either 1, 2, or 5 days, each allowing as many entrances and exits as you want. A 1-day pass costs 13€ for adults, and 7€ for children 16 and under. Boats operate daily (closed most of Jan) every 15 to 30 minutes, starting between 10 and 10:30am and ending at 4:30pm from November to March, 7pm in April and May and September and October, and 9:30pm from June to August. The timetable changes slightly every year so it's always worth double-checking on the website.

By Taxi

Taxi drivers are organized into a union that limits their number to around 15,000, which can make it difficult to find a taxi in Paris. It's virtually impossible to get a taxi at rush hour, and your best option for finding a taxi is often to wait at a station de taxis. Located across the city, you'll find a station de taxi by looking for a blue sign saying TAXI above a turquoise column.

You can hail regular cabs on the street when their signs are lit with a white light. An orange light means a taxi is occupied. Taxis are easier to find at the many stands near Métro stations. The flag drops at 2.20€ and the rates are then based on time and zone. From 10am to 5pm you pay .89€ per kilometer, from 5pm to 10am you pay 1.14€ to 1.38 € per kilometer. Journeys within Paris usually cost between 6€ and 20€, and there is a minimum fee of 6€.

You're allowed several pieces of luggage free if they're transported inside and are less than 5 kilograms (11 lb.). Heavier suitcases carried in the trunk cost 1€ to 2€ apiece. For radio cabs, call or reserve on the internet: Les Taxis Bleus (tel. 01-49-36-29-48; www.taxis-bleus.com), Taxi G7 (tel. 01-47-39-47-39; www.taxisg7.fr). Avoid minicabs or unlicensed taxis and make sure the meter is at 2.20€ when you first get in.

On Foot

Paris is made for walking, this is the only real way to explore the city in any depth. Stroll the streets and absorb the sights and smells. On almost every block you will find something of interest -- a Belle Epoque shopping arcade, a Renaissance square, a medieval rampart. After walking through an arrondissement, stop in a cafe for coffee and a spot of people-watching.