Pierre Gagnaire

Frommer's Review

If you're able to get a reservation, it's worth the effort. The menus are seasonal to take advantage of France's rich bounty; owner Pierre Gagnaire demands perfection, and the chef has a dazzling way with flavors and textures. Stellar examples are crayfish cooked tempura-style with thin-sliced, flash-seared vegetables and sweet-and-sour sauce; and turbot cooked in a bag and served with fennel and Provençal lemons. Chicken with truffles comes in two stages -- first the breast in wine-based aspic and then the thighs, chopped into roughly textured pieces. For dessert, try chocolate soufflé with a frozen parfait and pistachios.

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