Au Trou Gascon

Frommer's Review

One of Paris's most acclaimed chefs, Alain Dutournier, lures fashionable palates to an unchic area. He launched his career in southwest France's Gascony region. His parents mortgaged their inn to allow Dutournier to open an early-1900s bistro in a little-known part of the 12th Arrondissement. Word spread of a savant in the kitchen who practiced authentic cuisine moderne. His wife, Nicole, is the welcoming hostess, and the wine steward has distinguished himself for his exciting cave containing several little-known wines along with a fabulous collection of Armagnacs. You can start with duck foie gras cooked in a terrine or Gascony-cured ham. The best main courses include fresh tuna with braised cabbage; a superb cassoulet; and chicken from the Chalosse region of Landes, which Dutournier roasts and serves in its own drippings.

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