Hiramatsu

Frommer's Review

Other than the fact that chef Hiroyuki Hiramatsu and most of his staff are Japanese, the only Asian touch at this restaurant is a hot, wet towel that arrives before the meal, in the Japanese style. Everything else is unabashedly French: the contemporary dining room, seating just 40, that's outfitted in mostly monochromatic tones of black and white; the rows of windows, each of which is set with shimmering panes of red-and-blue cut glass; the mini-salon where smokers can run in for a quick puff and/or a pre- or post-dinner drink (the dining room is nonsmoking); and a polite staff wearing gray-and-white uniforms. Menu items change frequently, but are always artfully presented. Examples include lightly smoked and marinated salmon served with fines herbes, deliberately undercooked crayfish served with a mousseline of mushrooms and a watercress-and-truffle salad, fried scallops served with a "brick" of rhubarb and a splash of champagne sauce, and saddle of roasted venison in puff pastry with vanilla and walnut gnocchi and a puree of celeriac and green apples.

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