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You would never know from the subdued tones of the wood-paneled dining room that the chef here is a fan of spices and herbs from faraway lands. That said, Jean-Marc Notelet’s subtle and delicious cuisine also makes use of more local products, in particular, high-quality regional ingredients like mussels from Brittany, veal from Corrèze, and free-range pork brought up on apples and acorns. Menu must-haves include cod with lemon grass and combava, grilled duck with sumac, and beef confit with tonka beans and niora. All those exotic elements blend beautifully with French dishes, as the full dining room attests; this place is a favorite for business lunches and dinners, and draws a devoted local clientele.