A step back in time, this is how Parisian restaurants were before cuisine became nouvelle, or vanilla infusions were allowed to touch a fish dish. The room is crowded and lively; the cooking is old-fashioned and delicious. Many of the customers are regulars who work at the nearby stock exchange. The handwritten menu features beautifully executed classics like fillet of sole, pot-au-feu (beef simmered with vegetables), and sweetbreads with morels. Save room for the profiteroles at dessert.
- Margie Rynn