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This neighborhood haunt has stayed true to its proletarian roots in a frighteningly hip part of the northern Marais. At lunchtime, the chef sends out traditional bistro fare (such as blanquette de veau, or rump steak) into the busy dining room, while dinner comes with a change in menus and ambience—the checked plastic tablecloths are traded for white linen, and magret de canard au cassis (duck breast with cassis liqueur) and filet d’agneau a l’estragon (lamb steak with tarragon) take center stage. Thursday is steak-frites day, when regulars crowd in at lunch for their weekly dose of the yummy house fries.