When you arrive at this tiny restaurant, you understand the name: The entire facade is enclosed by 200-year-old wrought-iron grills. Back in the day, fishermen from Dieppe used this place as a springboard for carousing after delivering their fish to Les Halles market. Today the restaurant is known for its beurre blanc, a classic butter sauce made with wine and shallots that is terrific with fish. The signature dish here is an entire turbot (for two) prepared tableside and doused with—yes, you guessed it—beurre blanc. Other recommended dishes are duck terrine with hazelnuts, boeuf bourguignon, and a brochette of scallops with beurre blanc.
- Margie Rynn