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With its cracked tile floors, polished wood, and burgundy banquettes, chef Bruno Doucet’s neo-bistro is an homage to the good things in life, like foie gras in asparagus bouillon or marinated sea scallops with basil and Parmesan. Main dishes are variations on French comfort food, such as a succulent pork breast with sweet peas, or lively innovations like a creamy squid risotto with sauteed prawns. Dessert could be a stinky Reblochon cheese, a molten Guanaja chocolate cake, or the house specialty, rice pudding. Reserve a week in advance.