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One of the last remnants of the bustling atmosphere that used to surround the old Les Halles central market, Chez Denise stays open until the early hours of the morning and serves sturdy platters of côte de boeuf (a giant rib steak), grilled marrow bones, and brochettes of grilled meat so long they look like swords. The long-aproned waiters are used to encountering English speakers, but that hasn’t changed the vibe, which is local and lively. If you are not a carnivore, there are a few fish dishes, and you can always enjoy the homemade fries, which are delicious.