Restaurants

The chefs of Parma are acclaimed throughout Italy. Of course, Parmigiano-Reggiano has added just the right touch to millions of Italian meals, and the word parmigiana is quite familiar to American diners.

At the atmospheric Enoteca Fontana, Strada Farini 24A (tel. 0521-286037), open Tuesday to Saturday (closed in Aug) from 9am to 3pm and 4:30 to 9pm, you can stand at the ancient old bar or take a seat at one of the long communal tables. Sample from a list of hundreds of wines from Emilia-Romagna, many of them from the immediate region. You might decide to order a light meal, too, from the short menu of panini, ham-and-cheese platters, and pastas.

The most popular pizzeria in Parma is open late (although it's closed Mon) and is almost always crowded. You might have to wait at Pizzeria La Duchesa, Piazza Garibaldi 1 (tel. 0521-235962), especially if you want an outdoor table, but the pizzas are fabulous, especially when washed down with a carafe of Lambrusco.

Maxim's, in the Palace Hotel Maria Luigia, is also worth seeking out, whether you're staying in the hotel or not.