Hotels

Parikia -- The port town has three basic hotel zones: agora (the market area), harbor, and beach; alas, all can be very noisy. Here are some suggestions for potentially quiet places to stay. In addition to the places listed here, the Pandrossos (tel. 22840/22-903; www.pandrossoshotel.gr), on a hill overlooking Parikia and the harbor, has a pool and a quiet location. The hotel is within walking distance of town, but on hot days -- with apologies to Al Gore -- I'd rather drive up the hill; doubles from 130€.

Naoussa -- You might consider the coyly named Heaven Naoussa (tel. 22840/51-549; www.heaven-naoussa.com), with four doubles, five suites, and two maisonettes (with shared pool). Doubles run from 120€, suites from 200€, and maisonettes from 1,600€ per week. Rates for rooms and suites, but not villas, include an extensive breakfast buffet. The architecture is, appropriately, Cycladic, the decor is eclectic and stylishly casual, and restaurants and the harbor are steps away. If you're unable to find a room in Naoussa, try Nissiotissa Tours (tel. 22840/51-480), just off the east (left) side of the main square.

Lefkes -- The Lefkes Village Hotel is quite special, but if it is full when you visit, or if you want to spend less, the simple 14-unit Pantheon (tel. 22840/41-646) is perfectly decent and a lot cheaper (doubles from 65€).