St. Andrews

The village of St. Andrews -- or St. Andrews-by-the-Sea, as the chamber of commerce persists in calling it -- traces its roots back to a bunch of Loyalists. After the American Revolution, New Englanders who supported the British in the struggle needed a new life. They landed first at seaside Castine, Maine, which they thought was safely on British soil. But it wasn't; the St. Croix River was later determined to be the true border between Canada and the United States. Forced to uproot once more, these Loyalists dismantled their homes, loaded the pieces aboard ships, and rebuilt them on the welcoming peninsula of St. Andrews (not so far away from Castine, by water). And you know what? Some of these remarkably resilient saltbox houses still stand in the town today.

The community later emerged as a fashionable summer resort in the 19th century, when many of Canada's affluent built homes and gathered annually here for social activities. The Tudor-style Algonquin hotel (now known as the Fairmont Algonquin) was built in 1889 on a small rise overlooking the town and quickly became the area's social hub and defining landmark.

St. Andrews is beautifully situated at the tip of a long, wedge-shaped peninsula. Thanks to its location off the beaten track, this village hasn't been spoiled much by modern development, and walking the wide, shady streets -- especially around the Algonquin -- reminds one of a simpler time, as do hundreds of century-old homes in the town. A number of appealing boutiques and shops are spread along Water Street on the town's shoreline, and it's easy to grab a boat tour on the docks, too. I definitely recommend this town if you're seeking a tame, easy touristic dip into New Brunswick. Also don't miss the weekly farmer's market, held Thursday mornings in summer on the waterfront.

Getting There

St. Andrews is located at the apex of Route 127, which dips southward from Route 1 between St. Stephen and St. George. It's an easy drive north from St. Stephen or south from Saint John (but more scenic coming from Saint John); the turnoff is well marked from both directions.

In case you don't have wheels, Acadian Bus Lines (tel. 800/567-5151; www.acadianbus.com) runs one daily bus between St. Andrews and Saint John; the trip takes less than 90 minutes, and the adult one-way fare is C$25, C$43 round-trip. Even better, the bus line offers discounts to children, students, and seniors.

Visitor Information

St. Andrews' seasonal Welcome Centre (tel. 800/563-7397 or 506/529-3556) is located at 46 Reed Ave., on your left as you enter the village. Look for the handsome 1914 home overarched by broad-crowned trees (which is also home to the local Chamber of Commerce). The center opens daily from mid-May through mid-October; the rest of the year, contact the Chamber at the same address or by calling tel. 506/529-3555.