Restaurants

Restaurants open late and close early; don't plan on hot coffee if you're up early, but do plan ahead for late-evening hunger pangs. For inexpensive eats, try the tamal and atole vendors in front of the basilica and by the market. Housewives also sell steamy cups of atole, hot corundas (triangular tamales with no filling), and tamales.

In the evenings at the Plaza Chica, you can get a meal of chicken with simple enchiladas and heaps of fried potatoes and carrots. Look for a stand called Don Emilio. You can also get buñuelos, giant corn flakes that drip with cane syrup.