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228km (141 miles) SW of Shigatse, 255km (158 miles) NE of Zhangmu. Altitude: 4,000m (13,120 ft.)

Confusingly, there are three towns known as Dingri. The county capital town of Shelkar, 7km (4 1/3 miles) farther west from Pelbar (Dingri), is referred to as Xin Dingri (New Tingri). Tingri, the other base for treks in the Everest region, 60km (37 miles) farther west, is called Lao Dingri (Old Tingri). Other than dodging children peddling mollusks and demanding pens -- will the idiots who give them away please do something more useful with their consciences and money? -- there is little of interest in Pelbar. Pick up your permit for the Qomolangma Nature Reserve at the Qomolangma Service Center, on your right, set off the road, just after the turnoff.