Introduction to Peloponnese

What's special about the Peloponnese?

It's tempting to answer, "Everything." Virtually every famous ancient site in Greece is in the Peloponnese -- the awesome Mycenaean palaces of Kings Agamemnon and Nestor at Mycenae and Pylos (Pilos); the mysterious thick-walled Mycenaean fortress at Tiryns; the magnificent classical temples at Corinth, Nemea, Vassae, and Olympia; and the monumental theaters at Argos and Epidaurus, still used for performances today.

But the Peloponnese isn't just a grab bag of famous ancient sites. This peninsula, divided from the mainland by the Corinth Canal, is studded with great sand beaches, boutique hotels, fine restaurants, and two of Greece's most impressive mountain ranges: Taygetos and Parnon. Tucked away in the valleys and hanging precipitously from the mountainsides are the villages that are among the Peloponnese's greatest treasures. An evening under the plane trees in tiny Andritsena, where the sheep bells are usually the loudest sounds at night, and where oregano and flowering broom scent the hills, is every bit as memorable as a visit to one of the famous ancient sites. This is perhaps especially true in the mountains of Arcadia and deep in the Mani peninsula, where traditional Greek hospitality hasn't been eroded by too many busloads of visitors.

Let's face it: even the most avid travelers do not live by culture alone, and one of the great delights of seeing the Peloponnese comes from the quiet hours spent in seaside cafes, watching fishermen mend their nets while Greek families settle down for leisurely meals. Leisurely is the word to remember in the Peloponnese, an ideal place to make haste slowly. And what better place to watch shepherds on the hills or fishing boats on the horizon as you wait for dinner?

Peloponnesian culinary favorites include kouneli stifado (rabbit stew) with a surprising hint of cinnamon; and fish a la Spetsai (baked with tomato sauce). In summer -- when it seems that every tree on the plain of Argos hangs with apricots and every vine is heavy with tomatoes -- Peloponnesian food is at its freshest and best. If you're here in spring, look for delicious fresh artichokes and delicate little strawberries. The fresh lettuce grown here during the cool winter months is superb and Greek hothouses produce excellent tomatoes year-round. And don't forget to sample the local wines; the vineyards at Nemea, Patras, and Mantinia are famous. You can find out more about local cuisine at www.kerasma.gr and wines at www.greekwinemakers.com and www.greekwine.gr.

A few suggestions for your trip to the Peloponnese: While many of the Aegean islands sag under the weight of tourists from May until September, the Peloponnese is still relatively uncrowded, even in midsummer. That doesn't mean that you're going to have Olympia all to yourself if you arrive at high noon in August, but it does mean that if you get to Olympia early in the morning, you may have a quiet hour under the pine trees. If you're traveling with a car and can set your own pace, you can avoid the crowds at the most popular tourist destinations of Corinth, Mycenae, Epidaurus, and Olympia by visiting early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

So, kalo taxidi (bon voyage) on your trip to the Peloponnese, the most beautiful and historic part of Greece.