Planning a Trip

Visitor Information

The main Malaysia Tourism Board (MTB) office is located at no. 10 Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah (tel. 04/261-9067), just across from the clock tower by Fort Cornwallis. There's another information center at Penang International Airport (tel. 04/643-0501) and a branch on the third level at KOMTAR (Kompleks Tun Abdul Razak) on Jalan Penang (tel. 04/261-4461).

Getting There

By Plane -- Penang International Airport (tel. 04/643-4411) has flights that connect from all over the world. Malaysia Airlines (tel. 1300/883-000; www.malaysiaairlines.com) has about 20 flights each day from KL, plus connecting flights from all over the country and region. Other airlines that service Penang are Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways, Cathay Pacific, and the popular budget carrier, AirAsia (tel. 1300/889-933; www.airasia.com).

The airport is 20km (12 miles) from the city. To get into town, you must purchase fixed-rate coupons for taxis (RM38/$11/£5 to Georgetown; RM60/$17/£8 to Batu Feringgi). There are also car rentals at the airport; choose Avis (tel. 04/643-9633).

By Train -- By rail, the overnight trip from KL to Butterworth takes 10 hours and costs RM85 ($24/£12) first-class passage, or as low as RM17 ($4.80/£2) for economy class. The prices vary quite greatly depending on if you choose upper or lower berth, and what class passage you take. Call KL Sentral (tel. 03/2267-1200) for schedule information.

The train will let you off at the Butterworth Railway Station (tel. 04/323-7962), on Jalan Bagan Dalam (near the ferry terminal) in Butterworth, on the Malaysian mainland. From there, you can take a taxi to the island or head for the ferry close by.

By Bus -- Many buses will bring you to Butterworth or Georgetown, but I really only recommend it if you're a glutton for punishment. Transnasional stopped their executive coach service, and if you take a standard coach the trip will be horrible.

By Ferry -- The ferry to Penang is nestled between the Butterworth Railway Station and the Butterworth bus terminal. It operates 24 hours a day and takes 20 minutes from pier to pier. From 6am to midnight ferries leave every 10 minutes. From midnight to 1:20am boats run every half-hour, and from 1:20 to 6am they run hourly. Purchase your passage by dropping RM1.20 (30¢/15p) exact change in the turnstile (there's a change booth if you don't have it). Fare is paid only on the trip to Penang. The return is free. The ferry lets you off at Weld Quay.

By Taxi -- The outstation taxi stand is in Butterworth next to the bus terminal (tel. 04/323-2045). Fares to Butterworth from KL will be about RM300 ($84/£42).

Getting Around

By Taxi -- Taxis are abundant, but be warned they do not use meters, so you must agree on the price before you ride. Most trips within the city are between RM3 and RM6 (80¢-$1.70/40p-85p). If you're staying out at the Batu Feringgi beach resort area, expect taxis to town to run RM20 ($5.60/£2.80), RM30 ($8.40/£4.20) at night. The ride is about 15 or 20 minutes, but can take 30 minutes during rush hour.

By Bus -- Buses also run all over the island and are well used by tourists who don't want to spring RM20 ($5.60/£2.80) every time they want to go to the beach. The dark blue no. 93 and the white with blue no. 202 both operate between KOMTAR in Georgetown and the beach resorts at Batu Feringgi. Fare is anywhere under RM3 (80¢/40p). Get exact change from your hotel's cashier before you set off and ask the bus driver about the exact fare to your destination.

Car Rental -- If you want to drive, call Avis at the Penang International Airport at tel. 04/643-9633. They can also provide a car with driver for RM80 ($22/£11) per hour, for a minimum booking of 4 hours. If you plan to visit areas off Penang Island, the rate will increase.

By Bicycle & Motorcycle -- Along Batu Feringgi there are bicycles and motorcycles (little 100cc scooters, really) available for rent. I don't recommend hiring the scooters. You can never be certain of their maintenance record and Penang's drivers are careless about watching your back. A sad number of visitors are injured or worse because of scooter accidents.

By Trishaw -- In Georgetown it's possible to find some trishaw action for about RM20 ($5.60/£2.80) an hour. It's kitschy and touristy and I completely recommend it for traveling between in-town sights, at least for an hour or two. Bargain hard; these guys are skilled negotiators.

On Foot -- I think everyone should walk at least part of the time to see the sights of Georgetown because in between each landmark and exhibit there's so much more to see. A taxi, even a trishaw, will whisk you right by back alleys where elderly haircutters set up alfresco shops, bicycle repairmen sit fixing tubes in front of their stores, and Chinese grannies fan themselves in the shade. Georgetown is stimulating, with the sights of old trades still being plied on these living streets, the noise of everyday life, and the exotic smells of an old Southeast Asian port. Give yourself at least a day here. Start wandering early in the morning, by the waterfront, down the back alleys, before the heat of the sun takes hold -- the lighting is perfect for photography and you will find fantastic subjects here.

Fast Facts

Penang's area code is 04. The banking center of Georgetown is in the downtown area (close to Ft. Cornwallis) on Leboh Pantai, Leboh Union, and Leboh Downing, but you'll find ATMs in KOMTAR and other smaller shopping plazas as well. Internet cafes come and go, so it's best to ask your hotel's concierge for the closest place to your hotel. If you're in town, Chulia Street, the main drag for backpacker tourists, has Internet access in a few places.