Second Home Peru, Lima (tel. 01/477-5021): This small inn takes the B&B to a new level. Occupying the home of one of Peru's best-known artists, Victor Delfín, it hugs the coastline in bohemian Barranco. Rooms are elegant and airy, and the entire house is a small museum of Delfín's work.
Niños Hotel, Cusco (tel. 084/231-424): Even if this great little inn had no redeeming social and moral value, it would still be one of the best informal places to stay in Peru. The fact that it operates as part of a foundation that dedicates its profits to helping and housing Cusco's street children is a welcome bonus. The small Dutch-owned hotel, located in a restored and nicely if simply decorated colonial house, is charming, immaculate, and a great value. The trick is getting a reservation -- try many months in advance of your arrival.
Torre Dorada, Cusco (tel. 084/241-698): Even though it's outside the city center, this exceptional, extremely friendly, and family-run boutique hotel, in a quiet residential neighborhood 5 minutes from downtown Cusco, more than makes up for the inconvenience with superb service and a warm ambience. The inn isn't luxurious, but you won't find a friendlier place in Peru, and the breakfast buffet is better than those at most top-flight hotels.
Hostal Pisaq, Pisac (tel./fax 084/203-062): On the main square of Pisac, which is overrun on market days, this friendly little inn has neat features for a budget hostel: hand-painted murals, a sauna, an attractive courtyard, and a little cafe serving home-cooked meals and great pizza from a wood-burning oven.
Libertador Valle Sagrado Lodge, Yanahuara (tel. 084/251-526): A small hotel that looks and feels like a tiny colonial rural village, this is a great spot to absorb the relaxing feel and gorgeous sights of the Sacred Valley. Isolated and serene, with enchanting views and very comfortable rooms and a nice restaurant, it's the kind of place for discriminating individual travelers who'd rather not share a dining room with large groups.
El Albergue, Ollantaytambo (tel./fax 084/204-014): An American-owned hostel right next to the railroad tracks -- but much quieter than that would indicate -- this comfortable little place has just a few rooms and shared bathrooms. Beds are excellent, and the vibe, with relaxing gardens and Labrador retrievers running around, is great. There's also a cool wood-fired sauna.
Amazon Yarapa River Lodge, northern Amazon (tel. 800/771-3100 or 065/993-1172). A splendid, award-winning conservationist lodge good enough to be partnered with Cornell University and host its faculty and students at its field lab, this place is also perfect for amateur botanists and biologists. Though it's hidden away in the Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria, the largest of Peru's protected areas and one of the top spots for wildlife viewing, the lodge is unexpectedly comfortable and attractive, with huge private bungalows, a lounge, and a hammock house overlooking the river.
Reserva Amazónica Lodge, Tambopata (tel. 800/442-5042 or 01/610-0400). The swankest lodge in the Peruvian Amazon, this is the place for a comfortable jungle experience. You'll still get plenty of jungle, whether spotting birds on a canopy walk, watching for caimans along the river, or stalking monkeys on a small island. But when it comes time to relax, you'll do it in style with cocktails and dinner in the stylish main house before retiring to your plush African-style bungalow.
Explorer's Inn, Tambopata (tel. 01/447-8888): One of the most renowned and respected ecolodges in the Peruvian Amazon is this 30-year-old pioneer that hosts both ecotourists and scientists. About 3 hours upriver from Puerto Maldonado, the inn -- which features thatched-roof bungalows -- is superb for viewing otters, monkeys, and jungle birds.
Tahuayo Lodge, northern Amazon (tel. 800/262-9669). The top lodge in Peru's northern Amazon, about 4 hours from Iquitos and associated with the Rainforest Conservation Fund, is the only lodge with access to the terrific Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo Reserve. It's remote and small, but features excellent jungle programs, including zip-line canopy ropes for treetop nature viewing.
Casa Arequipa, Arequipa (tel. 054/284-219): The best new small hotel in Peru is this elite 1950s mansion masquerading as a sophisticated bed-and-breakfast. It feels like a European boutique hotel, with luxury linens, furnishings, and bathrooms that rival the finest upscale hotels in the country, but for a fraction of the price. Though it's in a residential neighborhood that's a short taxi ride from the beautiful colonial downtown of Arequipa, that minor inconvenience is a very small price to pay. The breakfast buffet and personal attention will make you think you're in a large five-star hotel.
La Casa de Melgar Hostal, Arequipa (tel./fax 054/222-459): In a pretty colonial house made of sillar stone, this small inn exudes style and charm. With thick walls, multiple interior courtyards, and gardens, it's much nicer than most inexpensive hotels. The ground-floor rooms, with vaulted brick ceilings, look like they're straight out of a movie shoot.
Las Casitas del Colca, Yanque (tel. 01/610-8300): A favorite of sophisticated travelers venturing into the rustic Colca Canyon, the Parador, owned by Orient-Express, has a unique country charm and elegance. It has recently been transformed into one of the most luxurious country hotels anywhere. The spacious and private bungalows have their own plunge pools and patios. The excellent dining room serves fresh country meals, and guests can choose from lots of hiking and horseback-riding opportunities. What was once a bargain, though, has become a refuge for the wealthy.
Hotel Posada del Puruay, Cajamarca (tel. 076/367-928, or 01/336-7869 for reservations): In the gorgeous highland countryside just outside Cajamarca, this country hotel rests in a restored 1830 farmhouse. The grounds, with gardens, horses, and amenities such as a barbecue pit, are surefire selling points, but the inn also has huge rooms, friendly personal service, a very good restaurant, and an extensive video library.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
