There are no campgrounds within the park boundaries. Backpackers with backcountry permits can stay in the park after it closes for the evening, but they must hike at least 1 mile into the wilderness before setting up camp. For drive-in camping, head to Holbrook, 25 miles west of the park on I-40, where several commercial campgrounds offer all the usual amenities.
The KOA Campground, 102 Hermosa Dr., Holbrook, AZ 86025 (tel. 800/562-3389 [reservations] or 928/524-6689), has a large, inviting swimming pool that shimmers like a mirage on sunny days. The 24 grassy tent sites and 100 RV sites are exposed to the sun and wind, as the owners try to grow trees in this unforgiving terrain. The cost is $19 to $22 for tents and RV spaces without hookups, $22 to $28 for full RV hookups. Major credit cards are accepted. The campground has a playground, game room, snack bar, public phones, self-service laundry, propane, dump station, and cable TV hookups (with an extra fee). It's open year-round. During the high season, campers feast at relatively inexpensive evening cookouts and all-you-can-eat pancake breakfasts. There are also several camping cabins that share the bathhouse and other facilities, for $32 double.
Located just 3 blocks south of the KOA Campground, A-OK RV, 1576 Roadrunner Rd., Holbrook, AZ 86025 (tel. 928/524-3226), is another good spot to set up camp, although it does not have a swimming pool. There are 150 sites; RV sites, at $21, include electric, water, sewer, and cable TV. Tent sites are $15 for two people. The campground offers public phones, a self-service laundry, a convenience store, and a dump station. It's open year-round and does not accept credit cards.