In Depth

For a historic city, Philadelphia is relatively large. It has 1.4 million residents. Its immediate environs have 4.4 million more. All told, Philadelphia is the sixth-largest U.S. city. So, Philadelphia is big. But here's the thing: Philadelphia feels small.

In the second half of the 17th century, city planner and religious freedom crusader William Penn envisioned the land between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers as a "greene countrie town." Penn modeled plans for the area after rural England, laying out roads in neat grids composed of spacious lots, intentionally leaving plenty of room for orchards and gardens. It wasn't long, however, until the enterprising owners of those lots realized the value of their real estate. Instead of planting their properties, they divided, and then subdivided, them. A few years hence, clusters of houses and businesses dominated Penn's grid. These neighborhoods were religiously diverse yet closely knit, and, all in all, they thrived. By the dawn of the 18th century, Philadelphia was officially a city.

As decades, then centuries, passed, Philadelphians continued to grow their city in this same manner. They built in rows, lived close together. They opened small businesses. They practiced their faiths. They absorbed new neighbors from far-away places. Even as shiny skyscrapers arose and gray highways cut in, Philadelphia, on the whole, remained a seamless series of urban villages.

Today, Philadelphia's easy-to-explore neighborhoods include Society Hill, Rittenhouse, Old City, Bella Vista, Northern Liberties, Powelton Village, Graduate Hospital, Passyunk Square, Queen Village, Chestnut Hill, and Manayunk. Still, beyond these friendly blocks lie vast residential stretches with far less visitor appeal. Philadelphia's rougher districts -- neighborhoods not normally included on historical tours -- have, in recent years, suffered record rates of crime and poverty. William Penn's vision of a verdant and free haven -- a "City of Brotherly Love" -- is yet to be realized.

Nonetheless, the promise of Philadelphia has come a long way. From his perch atop City Hall, the iconic statue of William Penn has witnessed the rise of industry, universities, bridges, museums, trains, stadiums, markets, suffrage, civil rights, and sports. He's seen his country town become a great American city -- a city that, despite its large size, feels quite small indeed.

How to Speak Like a Philadelphian: Ten Terms

1. Philly:  Use only if you're from here. Otherwise, it's "Philadelphia" to you.

2. Broad Street:  The north-south boulevard bisecting Center City is really 14th Street. Broad runs north, becoming Old York Road and 611. Never call Broad Street "14th Street." Its new designation, the "Avenue of the Arts" is a little suspicious, too.

3. 2nd Street: Call it "Two Street," especially in South Philly.

4. Front Street: Really 1st Street. Call it "Front."

5. Schuylkill: Pronounced "Skoo-kill." The name of the river that flows by the Philadelphia Museum of Art between Martin Luther King Jr. and Kelly drives. Also the name of I-76, the interstate expressway running east-west through the city.

6. Blue Route: I-476, connects I-95, I-76, and I-276 (the Pennsylvania Tpk.).

7. Passyunk: Pronounced "Pass-yunk." This one-way avenue runs diagonally south to north from Broad to South Street, through South Philadelphia.

8. Sansom Street: Pronounced "San-som," not "Samp-son." Although if you're going to make a mistake, this is the one to make.

9. The Boulevard: This is Roosevelt Boulevard, Route 1 N., a high-speed thoroughfare running through Northeast Philadelphia, connecting the Schuylkill Expressway (I-76) to I-276 (the Pennsylvania Tpk., which leads to the New Jersey Tpk.).

10. Cheesesteak: One word. Not "cheese steak." Definitely not "Philly cheese steak."

Seven Surefire Conversation-Starters in Philadelphia

• "Starr, Vetri, or Garces?" Translation: Who is your favorite Philly restaurateur -- Stephen Starr of Buddakan, Morimoto, and Continental fame; Marc Vetri of Vetri, Osteria, and Amis; or Jose Garces of Amada, Distrito, and Garces Trading Company?

• "Howard, Utley, or Rollins?" Translation: Who is your favorite of the Phillies -- first-baseman Ryan Howard, second-baseman Chase Utley, or short-stop Jimmy Rollins?

• "Nutter, Street, or Rendell?" Translation: Who's your favorite Philly mayor -- Michael Nutter (current), John Street (2000-2008), or Ed Rendell (1992-2000)?

• "Penn, Drexel, or Temple?" Translation: Which is your favorite Philly university?

• "Pat's, Geno's, Tony Luke's, or Cosmi's?" Translation: Where do you get your cheesesteak? Have you been to Frommer's top pick, Cosmi's?

• "Provolone or whiz? Wit or witout?" Translation: Do you like your cheesesteak with Provolone or Cheese Whiz? With or without onions?

• "Mets, Cowboys, or Rangers?" Trick question: Along with the Pittsburgh Pirates, New York Giants and the Yankees, these teams are Philadelphia sports teams' biggest rivals.