Hotels

Here's another great thing about staying over in Philadelphia: There almost always seems to be plenty of room at the historic inn, modern hotel, or comely bed-and-breakfast. In 2000, the city went gangbusters building temporary quarters for the attendees of that year's Republican National Convention. Today, this glut translates to increased room availability -- and lower prices.

At press time, there were more than 10,000 rooms in Philadelphia, and over 21,000 in the surrounding four counties. Rates have climbed, too. The average room rate of a couple of years ago was $120. In 2006, rooms averaged $152 per night. Discounts and promotions, even at luxury hotels on weekends, abound.

Nonetheless, you'll pay above average prices to snooze stylishly between high-thread-count sheets at the grand Park Hyatt at the Bellevue, the imposingly marble-columned Ritz-Carlton, the smoothly luxurious Four Seasons, or the impeccably boutique-y Rittenhouse Hotel. Visitors interested in more moderately priced, yet still memorable, digs can book the surprisingly upscale, historic Center City locations of Marriott's Courtyard and Residence Inn, or at the subtler, 20th-century marvels that house the Loews or Embassy Suites. Other chain hotel options include Holiday Inn, Sheraton, Best Western, Radisson, and Westin.

Most hotels offer business amenities such as Internet access ports, wireless Internet, and functional desks.

The airport area is positively swollen with hotels, but unless you've got an early or late flight, it's much more pleasant to stay in Center City. (Put it this way: It's like eating dinner at Denny's versus dining at an amazing neighborhood bistro.) Outside the city, you can find plenty of lovely, historic inns, such as Evermay on the Delaware in Bucks County, and upscale hotels, such as the Inns at Doneckers in Ephrata, Lancaster County -- see chapters 11 and 12 for descriptions of inns in the surrounding areas.

The Independence Visitor Center, 6th and Market streets, Philadelphia, PA 19106 (tel. 800/537-7676; www.independencevistorcenter.com), can help with accommodations questions and reservations.

Rates -- Unless otherwise specified, all prices quoted are for double occupancy and all rooms have private bathrooms and phones. You can count on a state tax of 7%, plus a city surcharge of 6% and a county tax of 1% (total hotel tax is 14%). Remember that the prices listed here are "rack rates" -- the room rate charged without any discount -- and you can usually do better. Be sure to ask about parking and/or arrangements for children.

B&B Agencies -- One good agency to contact is A Bed & Breakfast Connection/Bed & Breakfast of Philadelphia, Box 21, Devon, PA 19333 (tel. 800/448-3619 or 610/687-3565; www.bnbphiladelphia.com). This reservation service represents more than 80 personally inspected accommodations in Philadelphia, Valley Forge, the Brandywine Valley, and in Lancaster, Montgomery, and Bucks counties. The agency can select a compatible lodging for you or send you its free brochure. American Express, Visa, and MasterCard are accepted; phone reservations can be made Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. Be sure to ask if the property you are interested in accepts children.

Another website that lists 43 top bed-and-breakfasts and inns in Center City and in surrounding areas such as Chadds Ford and Bucks County, complete with photos, listings of amenities, and contact information, is Bed and Breakfasts Online (www.bbonline.com/pa/philadelphia.html).

Rates start at about $60 and range up to about $250 for separate luxury cottages.

No Smoking Anymore -- In the fall of 2006, Philadelphia mayor John Street enacted a citywide ban on smoking, with exceptions reserved only for a few neighborhood and cigar bars. This means all Philadelphia guest rooms are officially nonsmoking. No exceptions. (Still, those sensitive to smoke would do well to request rooms that have always been designated nonsmoking, as cigarettes tend to leave traces behind long after they've extinguished.)

Hostels

A $28 annual membership with Hostelling International USA, 8401 Colesville Rd., Suite 600, Silver Spring, MD 20910 (tel. 301/495-1240; www.hiusa.org), will give you discounts on already-low hostel rates.

A Historic Bed & Breakfast

Many B&Bs are listed through A Bed & Breakfast Connection/Bed & Breakfast of Philadelphia. However, some B&Bs list themselves independently. On the quaint and rustic end of the spectrum is Shippen Way Inn, 418 Bainbridge St. (tel. 800/245-4873 or 215/627-7266; www.shippenway.com), set in two row houses in Queen Village built around 1750 and lovingly maintained. During the summer, you can wake up in a four-poster bed and have breakfast in the back herb garden for $105 to $150 per night.

Near the Airport

If you want to be close to the city -- and expect great dining -- don't stay near the airport. If, however, necessity calls for you to stay far outside of town, you'll find a bevy of chain options at the moderate to inexpensive level. Your choices include Hampton Inn Philadelphia International Airport, 8600 Bartram Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19153 (tel. 800/426-7866 or 215/966-1300), with rates starting around $136; Holiday Inn Philadelphia Stadium, 10th Street and Packer Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19148 (tel. 877/211-3289 or 215/755-9500), which averages $155 for a double; Four Points by Sheraton, 4101 Island Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19153 (tel. 800/325-3535 or 215/492-0400), a slimmed-down version of the Sheraton Suites across the way, which charges $100 on up (and books far in advance); Airport Ramada Inn, 76 Industrial Hwy., Essington, PA 19029 (tel. 800/277-3900 or 610/521-9600), with rates of $111 for a double; Comfort Inn Airport, 53 Industrial Hwy., Essington, PA 19029 (tel. 800/228-5150 or 610/521-9800), with rates of $118 for a double; and Holiday Inn Airport, 45 Industrial Hwy., Essington, PA 19029 (tel. 800/843-7663 or 610/521-5090), at $145 for a double.

City Line & Northeast

City Line Avenue (U.S. 1), just off the Schuylkill Expressway, is a good jumping-off point for the western suburbs or Lancaster County. Northeast Philly is close to Bucks County, the discount shopping at Franklin Mills Mall, and the entrance to the fabulous New Jersey Turnpike.

Thoroughly comfortable to kinda seedy national chains dot this area. The former includes Homewood Suites Philadelphia, 4200 City Line Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19131 (tel. 800/362-2779 or 215/966-3000), Holiday Inn City Line, 4100 Presidential Blvd. (City Line Ave. at I-76), Philadelphia, PA 19131 (tel. 800/465-4329 or 215/477-0200) and the Best Western Philadelphia Northeast, 11580 Roosevelt Blvd., Philadelphia, PA 19116 (tel. 800/528-1234 or 215/464-9500).