Restaurants

Philadelphia has a ton of great restaurants. I would have included more in this chapter, but, hey, I had to save some room for the Liberty Bell. Dining out in Philly requires some serious decision-making skills. Will you glam it up along Walnut Street, aka Restaurant Row? Will you explore side streets for chic, neighborhood BYOB bistros? Will you endure the cocktail-quaffing crowds of Old City in order to score a coveted table at Buddakan or Amada? You could explore South Philly for mom-and-pop gravy joints, or try deliciously daring creations at the handful of great independent establishments just south of South Street.

Zagat's, as well as other well-known restaurant guides, consistently ranks many of Philadelphia's restaurants among America's best. Some, like Le Bec-Fin, the Fountain at the Four Seasons, Barclay Prime, and Morimoto, fall into the special-event category. Others such as Standard Tap, Famous Fourth Street, Monk's, and Tacconelli's are neighborhood joints that are so good, people travel from miles around just to eat at them.

Of course, you'll probably want to try a cheesesteak, and maybe its lesser-known but just-as-tasty sister sub, the roast pork sandwich.

This guide, unfortunately, does not have space to include the many renowned suburban restaurants. If you're heading out that way, your hotel concierge or volunteers who staff the desk at the Independence Visitor Center, 6th and Market streets, Philadelphia, PA 19107 (tel. 215/965-7676 or www.independencevisitorcenter.com), can tell you more about the dining options there.

For Web surfers, good sites I've seen for Philadelphia and the surrounding regions are the restaurant pages of www.philly.com, via the Philadelphia sites of www.digitalcity.com and www.citysearch.com. You can also visit www.phillymag.com for restaurant listings, and www.menupages.com for specific, downloadable menus and reader reviews. Many restaurants have their own sites, and offer reservations through www.opentable.com.

This guide categorizes very expensive restaurants as those charging $55 or more per person for dinner without wine; expensive as $40 to $55 per person; moderate as $20 to $40; and inexpensive as under $20. Meal tax is 7%, and standard tipping is 15% (the latter is occasionally included on the tab).

Lunch is a fantastic way to experience the city's high-end restaurants at a less daunting price: Lacroix, a fine French spot in the Rittenhouse Hotel, for instance, offers a $26 prix-fixe lunch that is an exceptional bargain.

The service of wine and liquor is fraught with politics. Some restaurants are BYOB due to high fees to get a license, and restaurants with licenses may charge as much as 300% what they paid for a bottle of wine. The state Liquor Control Board does allow restaurants with licenses to permit customers to bring their own bottles, but don't look for quick acceptance of this policy.

Food Courts -- The Reading Terminal Market at 12th and Arch streets (tel. 215/922-2317; www.readingterminalmarket.org), in the space underneath the train terminal, has served Philadelphians since the turn of the 20th century.

Breakfast All Day -- To me, two places do casual daily breakfasts better than anywhere else in the city. Sam's Morning Glory at 10th and Fitzwater, near the Italian Market, serves coffee in cool metal cups, frittatas with all manner of delicious stuffings, homemade veggie burgers, extra-fresh salads, and creatively topped "Glory" pancakes. Up in Northern Liberties at the corner of 4th and Brown, Honey's Sit 'N' Eat is another comfortably cozy spot for potato pancakes, huevos rancheros, omelets, and green bean casserole.

Bring Your Own

Philadelphia boasts more bring-your-own-bottle restaurants per capita than any other American city, mainly because the region's post-Prohibition laws limit the city's number of liquor licenses. BYOBs or BYOs, as most locals call them, generally fit into the bistro category. They're often small and most serve only dinner. Many are cash-only. Some accept reservations, some are first-come, first-served. Below are some of my favorites, but you'll find others reviewed in this guide, including La Viola, Lee How Fook, Marigold Kitchen, Nan, and Tacconelli's.

Dmitri's -- This place in Queen Village is the mack daddy of this genre. Greek, seafood-oriented, and tiny, it has amazing hummus, grilled octopus, fresh bluefish, and rice pudding. Reservations and cash are not accepted. Expect long waits during the dinner rush. Hostesses often find waiting patrons hanging out at the bar across the street. 3rd and Catharine sts. tel. 215/625-0556.

Melograno -- This Roman-inspired, no-reservations corner spot specializes in homemade pastas and seasonal meats. Although unfussy, it's undeniably chic. Go early to get a table. 22nd and Spruce sts. tel. 215/875-8116.

Matyson -- The owners here use only the freshest ingredients, and open for lunch. Steak frites, trout over risotto, and desserts are house specialties. Reservations and credit cards are accepted. The business district location is convenient. 19th St., between Market and Chestnut sts. tel. 215/564-2925. www.matyson.com.

Audrey Claire -- This stylish spot serves flatbreads topped with pears, Gorgonzola, and walnuts; grilled Romaine salads; and roast chicken with pomegranate molasses. In summer, the sidewalk tables are idyllic. 20th and Spruce sts. tel. 215/731-1222. www.audreyclaire.com.

Lolita -- One of my favorite restaurants in the city, BYOB or otherwise, Lolita serves contemporary Mexican that adds flavorful touches like huitlacoche (a fungus) to its inspired dishes. Reservations are accepted; credit cards are, too. Bring a bottle of tequila, and they'll mix up a pitcher of margaritas for the table using seasonal fruit juice. 13t St., between Sansom and Chestnut sts. tel. 215/456-7100.

Bistro 7 -- This is a breath of fresh air among the crowded bars of Old City. Chef/co-owner Michael O'Hallaran works wonders with gnocchi, Spanish seafood stews, and, for dessert, Asian puddings. The atmosphere is friendly and neighborhood-y. Reservations are accepted, as are credit cards. 7 N. 3rd St. tel. 215/931-1560.

Chloe -- Try for a last-minute table at this lovely little Old City spot. The owners are both chefs who love to give comfort food an elegant twist. Cash only. No reservations. 232 Arch St. tel. 215/629-2337.

Pumpkin -- At this tiny, casually pretty spot with an open kitchen, you can watch chef Ian Moroney plate up a Mediterranean fish stew rich in saffron, or the whole fish of the day. Cash only. Reservations recommended. 1713 South St. tel. 215/545-4448.

Mercato -- Just a block from Broad Street, Mercato doesn't accept cash or reservations. Specialties include scallops over spring pea risotto, pumpkin-stuffed ravioli, and short ribs. Another bonus is the olive oil tasting menu. 1216 Spruce St. tel. 215/985-2962.

Jamaican Jerk Hut -- The most casual of this bunch, the Jamaican Jerk Hut serves authentic island fare right off Broad Street. I love the salt cod and accras. Large-party reservations are accepted, but not credit cards. Try to go in the summer, when you can sit at a table at the large back porch. 1436 South St. tel. 215/545-8644.

Business Lunch: Meet & Eat or Grab & Go

For a Sit-Down Meal -- Fork Restaurant -- Take a client here, and you'll score points. While other polished Old City restaurants serve lunch, this elegant, unmarked spot does it quietly and seamlessly.

Le Castagne -- The Sena family brings classy Italian west of Broad with this spare bistro. Order the gnocchi. 1920 Chestnut St. tel. 215/751-9913.

The Palm -- Part of a national chain of upper-crust steakhouses, The Palm has become synonymous with the power lunch. Politicos and other status-seekers angle for noontime tables, hoping to get their caricatures up on the walls, next to those of former mayors, newscasters, and such. Bellevue, 200 S. Broad St. tel. 215/546-7256.

Twenty21 -- Tucked below the offices of One Commerce Square, this handsome restaurant serves an appealing mix of American-Continental fare. Tables and booths are oversize, better to accommodate briefcases and PowerPoint presentations. 2005 Market St. tel. 215/851-6262.

For a Casual Meal -- Devil's Alley -- This laid-back spot gets crowds at noon for its comfort food. Pizzas, burgers, and, if it's been that kind of day, a beer are best bets. 1907 Chestnut St. tel. 215/751-0707.

Good Dog -- The burgers are famous at this narrow, two-floor gastro-pub. The calamari salads and grilled cheeses are good, too. 224 S. 15th St. (between Walnut and Locust sts.). tel. 215/985-9600.

Eat-In or Take-Out -- Bootsie's -- This joint prides itself on the high-grade meats it uses in its Wagyu beef, Angus, or buffalo burgers and hot dogs. Prices are a little higher than at your average order-at-the-counter spot, but these are some tasty sandwiches, available with toppings like mango salsa or applewood-smoked bacon. 38 S. 19th St. (between Market and Chestnut sts.). tel. 215/988-0089.

Di Bruno Bros. Pronto -- This outpost of a South Philly cheese shop has an upstairs counter for ordering quick and delicious lasagna Bolognese, balsamic chicken, and eggplant Parmesan, plus soups, salads, and panini. 1730 Chestnut St. tel. 215/564-9339.

Grocery -- The quick, clever panini and yummy breakfast sandwiches (available all afternoon) come with grapefruit soda, Teany teas, and lattes. 106 S. 13th St. (between Chestnut and Sansom sts.). tel. 215/922-5252.

Picnic -- Just across the Walnut Street Bridge, on the edge of Drexel and Penn, this cheerful spot serves some of the city's best takeout fare: Gorgonzola salads with spiced pecans, savory dips, yummy sandwiches, lemon bars, and chocolate pots de crème. What's more, they'll assemble a complete picnic for you, using one of their vintage picnic baskets. 3131 Walnut St. tel. 215/222-1608.