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Attractions

Consider Philadelphia's sightseeing possibilities -- the most historic square mile in America; more than 90 museums; innumerable Colonial churches, row houses, and mansions; an Ivy League campus; more Impressionist art than you'll find in any place outside of Paris; and leafy, distinguished parks, including the largest one within city limits in the United States. Philadelphia has come a long way since 1876, when a guidebook recommended seeing the new Public Buildings at Broad and Market streets, the Naval Yards, the old YMCA, and the fortresslike prison (which is still a tourist site as the Eastern State Penitentiary!).

Most of what you'll want to see within the city falls inside a rectangle on a map between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers in width, and between South and Vine streets in height (although you'll want to get out of the grid to visit the Art Museum and Fairmount Park). It's easy to organize your days into walking tours of various parts of the city -- see chapter 8 for suggestions. Nothing is that far away. A stroll from City Hall to the Philadelphia Museum of Art takes about 25 minutes, although the flags and flowers along the Parkway will undoubtedly sidetrack you. A walk down Market or one of the parallel streets named for trees (Chestnut, Spruce, Pine, Locust) to Independence National Historical Park and Society Hill should take a little less time -- but it probably won't, since there's so much to entice you on the way. If you'd rather ride, the spiffy PHLASH buses loop past most major attractions every 12 minutes, and the all-day fare is $4, or pay $1 each time you ride (service runs daily May-Nov 10am-6pm, and seniors ride for free except 4:30-5:30pm weekdays). SEPTA also has an all-day $5.50 fare for city unlimited rides on buses, trolleys, subways, and the El. The two systems do not accept each other's passes.

The city is trying to wrap some of its attractions together in various packages. One of two "package-priced" offers is the combined RiverPass ticket for Independence Seaport Museum, the cruiser Olympia, and the submarine Becuna, plus Camden attractions such as the Adventure Aquarium and the ferry between them; prices vary, but the deluxe version is $30 adults, $27 seniors, and $25 for children 3 to 12. Purchase these from Independence Seaport Museum. The second package deal is Philadelphia Citypass, which offers admission to seven major attractions, including the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Franklin Institute, the National Constitution Center, the Philadelphia Zoo, and the Seaport Museum; prices are $47 for adults and $33 for children 3 to 12, and they may be purchased in advance on www.citypass.net/cgi-bin/citypass (click on "Philadelphia") or at any one of the attractions. Tickets are good up to 9 days from first use, and they represent about a 50% discount from full admissions to all of the attractions.

Reading Terminal Market is an attraction in itself, as is the Italian Market if you're exploring South Philadelphia.

Old City's Crazy Colonials -- Every summer, they come back to town. You're enjoying an oversize bowl of miso soup in Buddakan, and you see a man in white knickers walking by. You're taking a shortcut behind the Second Bank of the U.S., and you get caught up in a bayonet charge. On Elfreth's Alley, in Carpenters' Hall, in the blocks that make up Old City, acts clad in Colonial garb roam. These performers' jobs are to wander about, answer questions about the historic personages they're portraying, and to stop at scheduled times to tell a story, proclaim, lead a military muster, play the glass Armonica, and take visitors on special tours around town. The organization they work for is Once Upon a Nation. Find out more about them and their performances at www.onceuponanation.org. And don't be surprised if they appear befuddled when you ask directions to the closest Wi-Fi hotspot: They're just staying in character.

The Four Seasons' Favorite Spots

We asked the Four Seasons' concierges to reveal a few of their favorite under-the-radar Philly spots. Here's what they said:

  • Shane Candies, 110 Market St. (tel. 215/922-1048). Try the rich, handmade chocolate buttercreams at America's oldest candy store.

  • Japanese House and Garden (Shofuso), Belmont and Montgomery drives (tel. 215/878-5097; www.shofuso.com). Western Fairmount Park's beautifully preserved refuge is open May through October.

  • Dmitri's, 3rd and Catharine streets (tel. 215/625-0556). The original Queen Village BYOB always has long lines

  • Christ Church, 2nd and Church sts. The courtyard of Old City's prettiest Colonial church is the perfect spot for a picnic.

  • Eastern State Penitentiary, 21st Street and Fairmount Avenue (tel. 215/236-5111). Touring this decrepit, medieval-looking prison is a marvelous adventure. Closed in winter.

  • Rosenbach Museum, 20th Street and Delancey Place (tel. 215/732-1600). Just off Rittenhouse Square, this paean to reading is a great place to rediscover James Joyce . . . and Maurice Sendak.

  • Mutter Museum, 22nd and Market streets (tel. 215/563-3737). Why do these four-star concierges like jars and jars of pickled organs? Maybe you should be nicer to them.

  • Wilma Theater, Broad and Spruce streets (tel. 215/546-7824). The Avenue of the Arts's premier venue for contemporary, original drama.


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    Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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