Nightlife

Not so long ago, if you were exploring Philly after sunset, you were probably up to no good. These days, the Avenue of the Arts (S. Broad St. btw. Market and Pine sts.), Rittenhouse Square, Old City, and Northern Liberties come to life as the hour grows later and there are plenty of fun ways to occupy yourself.

For complete listings of what's going on and week-of discounts (called "Philly Fun Savers"), visit the Greater Philadelphia Cultural Alliance listings website at www.philaculture.org, Philly Fun Guide at www.phillyfunguide.com, or call tel. 215/557-7811. Another all-inclusive website, www.gophila.com, offers a great overview of Philadelphia's cultural landscape.

For commercial attractions such as large concerts, Ticketmaster (tel. 215/336-2000; www.ticketmaster.com) is your best bet. Local ticket brokers such as the Philadelphia Ticket Office, 1500 Locust St. (tel. 610/667-9600 or 545-1527), or Ticket Warehouse (tel. 800/252-8499; www.ticketwarehouse.com) are also reliable. Out-of-state brokers may have better selections, though their prices could be exorbitant.

Cinema

Center City isn't a movie a minute, but it's getting better by the year. Old City has three nice Ritz Theatres, and all of them tend toward Miramax style, small (but not that small) films, both domestic and foreign. The Ritzes share a phone number (tel. 215/925-7900) and website (www.landmarktheatres.com). There's the five-screen Ritz 5 Movies, 214 Walnut St.; the five-screen Ritz at the Bourse, 4th and Ranstead streets just off Chestnut Street behind the Omni Hotel; and the Ritz East, on 2nd Street between Chestnut and Walnut streets, with two screens. The Rittenhouse area's petite, slightly spartan, two-screen Roxy Theatre (tel. 215/923-6699) shows first-run movies and occasional old-timers.

South Philly's United Artist Riverview, 1400 S. Columbus Blvd. (tel. 215/722-2219), shows blockbusters to an often talkative crowd. The Franklin Institute's Tuttleman IMAX Theater, 222 N. 20th St. (tel. 215/448-1200; www.fi.edu), shows blockbusters and adventure and nature movies (Deep Sea, Roving Mars, Ant Bully) on its four-story, domed screen.

In University City, there are foreign film series, political documentaries, and other indie movies shown at Penn's International House, 3701 Chestnut St. (tel. 215/387-5125).

Philadelphia's Film Festivals -- Philadelphia hosts two major film festivals annually, kind of. The largest has always been the Philadelphia Film Festival, host of screenings and premières of all manner of independent films. The PFF has recently changed partners and changed scheduling and will likely continue to be held 2 weeks in October at theaters in Center City and University City. Recent festival showings have included Black Swan and (500) Days of Summer. Actors and directors are often in attendance -- Susan Sarandon! Kerry Washington! Will Shortz! -- and stick around to answer the audience's questions when the film ends. The other big movie deal is the Philadelphia Qfest (formerly Philadelphia International Gay and Lesbian Film Festival), which takes place 2 weeks in July and draws major crowds to the theaters -- and to the notoriously amazing after parties.

Gambling

After a hard-fought battle with (and among) area residents, an industrial strip along the river turned into bright and shiny SugarHouse Casino, 1001 N. Delaware Ave. (at Frankford Ave.) (tel. 877/477-3715; www.sugarhousecasino.com). Lacking the nightlife, concerts, or fun and fancy dining options that you might find in a casino in Vegas or A.C., the single-story facility has all the charm of a flashy inner-city bus depot. That is, a bus depot that's smoky -- thanks to an exemption from the citywide smoking ban -- and where the drinks flow 24-7 -- thanks to an exception from statewide liquor laws -- but not freely, since both slots players and table gamers must pay for them. Patrons here tend to be on the older side, such as the sweet, confused, toothless visibly intoxicated gentleman who recently approached me in the parking lot and asked for help finding his car. (Could have been worse: He could have been one of the patrons who've been followed home and mugged for a few hundred bucks in winnings.) I say, if you gotta gamble, head to Atlantic City.

Readings

The main branch of the Free Library of Philadelphia, a beautiful limestone temple at 1901 Vine St. (tel. 215/686-5322; www.library.phila.gov), has regular author readings with writers like Toni Morrison and John Grogan. Borders, 1 S. Broad St. (tel. 215/568-7400), runs one of the country's top series of author readings in an elegant setting across the Avenue of the Arts from the Ritz-Carlton. Readings are usually at 7:30pm weekdays and 2pm weekends. Barnes & Noble in Rittenhouse Square, 1805 Walnut St. (tel. 215/665-0716), offers semiregular 7pm readings.

Tours & Spectacles

The Benjamin Franklin Bridge has been outfitted with special lighting effects by the noted architectural firm Venturi Scott Brown & Associates. The lights are triggered into mesmerizing patterns by the auto and train traffic along the span. Lighting plays on most of the major monuments and bridges leading in and out of Center City and on City Hall as well.

May through October, from dusk until 11:15pm, Independence National Historical Park becomes the backdrop for the mesmerizing Lights of Liberty  show. Wearing special headsets, you hear stereophonic sound and see 50-foot projections and surprising special effects that illustrate the struggle toward America's independence.

Late-Night Eats

When the bars close, the grubbing begins. Here's where everyone goes to get a late-night/early-morning junk-food fix.

• South Street: Lorenzo & Son's, 305 South St. (tel. 215/627-4110). For floppy, oversize triangles of slippery, satisfying pizza, $2.50 a slice. Open until 4am (until 3am Sun -- really Mon morning).

• Old City: Sonny's Famous Steaks, 228 Market St. (tel. 215/629-5760). It's not a South Philly cheesesteak, but it's close enough tastewise, and much closer distancewise. Open until 3am on weekends.

• South Philly: Pat's and Geno's, intersection of Wharton, E. Passyunk, and 9th Street. They're open 24 hours, but somehow, the bargoers seem to be in a rush. Cosmi's closes at 9pm, unfortunately.

• Rittenhouse Square: Little Pete's, 219 S. 17th St. (tel. 215/545-5508). This modest 24-hour diner, complete with counter seats, chocolate milkshakes, and skinny grilled cheeses packs 'em in come 2:15am, just like Rouge did, 3 hours earlier.

• Washington West: Midtown II, 122 S. 11th St. (tel. 215/627-6452). All the Gayborhood seems to gather at this friendly diner (open 24/7) around 3am, to nosh spinach and feta omelets and BLTs -- and to give up on flirting.