Shopping

Center City's shopping scene offers a refreshing antidote to big-box stores and tired malls. Philly's retail stores cluster in small, neighborhood-y pockets. As you shop, you'll find many of the same chain stores that exist elsewhere in the United States, but here those familiar names are interspersed with thoroughly unique, independently owned shops.

My favorite neighborhood for shopping is arty, stylish Old City, where a new boutique seems to open every season. Higher-end shops can be found on Walnut Street from Broad to 20th Street, aka "Rittenhouse Row." I love the handful of shops along 13th Street, too, between Walnut and Chestnut streets. The kid in me can't resist South Street's splash of sneaker parlors, vintage destinations, costume jewelry shops, and gift emporiums. And the adult in me savors walking along my neighborhood's Antique Row, on Pine Street between 9th and Broad streets.

For all its retail independence, Philly has malls, too, albeit modest ones. You'll find them at the end of this chapter. But if you want to shop Bloomie's, Neiman's, Nordstrom, Crate & Barrel, and hundreds more familiar stores, you'll have to brave the traffic of the notoriously jammed Schuylkill Expressway (I-76W) to the Court, Plaza, and Pavilion in suburban King of Prussia, a mall second in size only to Minnesota's sprawling Mall of America. (If I were you, I'd stay in town.)

One more note, before you don the comfortable shoes and break out the plastic: For the time being, there is no sales tax on clothing. Other items are taxed at 7%. Most stores are open daily from 10am to 6 or 7pm, often later on Wednesday and Friday.

Antiques

With its tradition of fine furniture-making since the 1700s, Philadelphia is a trove of antiques, which range from fine locally made chairs and desks to beautiful imports sold in intimate shops. Tree-lined Pine Street from 9th to 13th streets boasts a dozen or so antiques stores, some of which do their own refinishing and silver restoration (go to www.antique-row.org for listings). Old City stores mostly specialize in Deco and mid-20th-century modern pieces, and Germantown Avenue in Chestnut Hill also has fine antiques shops. As in any antiques market, you'll have to bring your own expertise to the store, and you'll have to trust your dealer. In April, several high-end antiques shows, including the prestigious Philadelphia Antiques Show (tel. 215/387-3500; www.philaantiques.com), are held at the 33rd Street Armory.

Art Galleries

The line between art "galleries" and art "shops" is more blurred here than in many cities. Some galleries -- mostly on and between 2nd and 3rd and Market and Race streets -- stand out among the crowd for their superior quality. But it's fun to explore all of them on the "First Friday" night of every month, when they stay open late and draw crowds with free wine and snacks.

Crafts

Philadelphia artisanship has always commanded respect. The tradition endures, both in small individual workshops and in cooperative stores. The Craft Show held every November at the Convention Center is one of the best in the country.

For outdoor crafts vendors, Head House Square bustles with booths from April to September, all day Saturday and Sunday afternoon. Reading Terminal Market has several booths devoted to tableware, wearable art, and South American and African crafts.

Fashion

Center City has a Banana Republic at Broad and Walnut streets (tel. 215/751-0292), a BCBG at 1601 Walnut St. (tel. 215/665-1917), and a bebe at 1423 Walnut St. (tel. 215/569-2118). It has two Benetton stores, one at 1520 Walnut St. (tel. 215/546-9830) and the other in Liberty Place, 1625 Chestnut St. (tel. 215/864-0678). It has both Brooks Brothers, 1513 Walnut St. (tel. 215/564-4100), and Burberry, 1616 Walnut St. (tel. 215/545-6003). It has a Club Monaco at 1503 Walnut St. (tel. 215/567-7071), a Coach at 1703 Walnut St. (tel. 215/564-4558), and a Cole Haan at 1600 Walnut St. (tel. 215/985-5801). Lucky Jeans, Jones New York, Ann Taylor, Talbot's, and Zara are also all on Walnut. There's a J. Crew in Liberty Place, 1625 Chestnut St. (tel. 215/977-7335). A handsome Polo Ralph Lauren is in the Bellevue, and Gap seems to be everywhere.

You could spend all day in these chains -- and have fun doing it. For those of you who'd like to discover the more unique charms of Philadelphia's retail scene, here's a list of independently owned and/or locally significant Philadelphia shops.

Gifts & Home Goods

You will run into basic historic Philadelphia memorabilia all over Society Hill and Independence National Historical Park, beginning with the gift shop at Independence Visitor Center at 6th and Market streets. Here are spots for more unique gifts.

Jewelry & Silver

Many of the city's jewelers can be found within a couple of city blocks at Jeweler's Row, centering on Sansom and Walnut streets and 7th and 8th streets, which touts itself as offering 30% to 50% off the retail price. This area contains more than 350 retailers, wholesalers, and craftspeople. Particularly notable is quirky I Switt, 130 S. 8th St. (tel. 215/922-3830), for its trove of vintage and antique jewelry.

Shoes

Philadelphia Runner and Rittenhouse Sports sell sneakers. Joan Shepp, Vagabond, Lost & Found, Sugarcube, Smak Parlour, and Macy's also sell shoes.

Wine & Liquor

After the repeal of Prohibition, Pennsylvania decided not to license private liquor retailing but to establish a government monopoly on alcohol sales. You can only buy spirits in state stores, wine in state stores or Pennsylvania winery shops (such as Blue Mountain Vineyards tel. 215/238-9022] in Reading Terminal Market), and beer in distributors, licensed delis or convenience stores, and some bars, where you'll likely pay way above retail.

This situation (plus the relative lack of small-maker wines) makes most out-of-town drinkers growl, or at least roll their eyes. Relief is coming slowly: Some state stores are now open daily, expanding their regular Monday through Friday 9am to 9pm hours to include Sunday noon to 5pm. Stores open daily include centrally located 1218 Chestnut St. (tel. 215/560-4380), Society Hill/Independence Park-area 326 S. 5th St. (tel. 215/560-7064), Rittenhouse at 1913 Chestnut St. (tel. 215/560-4215), and West Philadelphia's 4049 Market St. (tel. 215/823-4709). For a complete listing of all state-run wine and liquor stores, visit www.lcb.state.pa.us.

For beer -- especially interesting craft brews and imports -- I recommend the Foodery, with corner locations along Antique Row at 10th and Pine (tel. 215/928-1111) and in Northern Liberties at 2nd and Poplar streets (tel. 215/238-6077).

Throwback Pro-Ball Jerseys, Jackets & Caps

Century-old Philly merchant Mitchell & Ness, 1318 Chestnut St. (tel. 267/765-0613; www.mitchellandness.com), doesn't need to advertise its wares. The athletes who first wore them take care of that. The company, originally a traditional sporting goods shop, specializes in authorized reproductions of pro and college team get-ups. Almost every item is limited edition, which means if you want an exact copy of Wayne Gretzky's LA Kings Road Jersey (ca. 1993); Junior Seau's '94 alternate jersey from the Chargers championship game; Mickey Mantle's home shirt from '51 or '52; the Saints' '06 warm-up jacket; or a red, white, and blue wool Sixers team jacket, you'll have to buy it soon -- and pay a pretty penny. Just about every pro athlete and hip-hop star collects Mitchell & Ness nostalgia. If you drop by during store hours but the door's locked, chances are a celebrity's doing some shopping.

Rescue Rittenhouse Spa Lounge

One floor above the din of bustling 17th Street is Philadelphia's most tranquil -- and toniest -- day spa. Rescue Rittenhouse Spa Lounge, 255 S. 17th St. (tel. 215/772-2766; www.rescuerittenhousespa.com), has a devoted following among Philadelphia's most discerning spa-goers. Patrons swear by the magical "biolift" facials (everyone who does skin here is amazing), ethereal massages (ask for Andre), impeccable mani-pedis, and flawless makeup application. You'll crawl into one of the robes, sip a glass of cucumber-mint water, curl up on a cushy white sofa, and never want to leave -- at least, not without a bagful of magical products from Biologique Recherche, Valmont, or Chantecaille.