What's New

While it is Philadelphia's historic elements that many visitors seek out -- the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and the National Constitution Center -- it's what's new in Philly that makes the city exciting and vibrant. Here's the latest:

Planning Your Trip

Mayor John Street has promised that by fall of 2007, all of Philadelphia's 135 square miles will have wireless Internet access.

Another big change: In 2006, Philadelphia City Council passed a citywide smoking ban. With few exceptions, hotels, restaurants, bars, and clubs are now 100% smoke free.

Accomodations

For the first time in a long time, Philadelphia's hotels have been busier on weekends than weekdays. Still, hotel guests generally get better rates during weekend stays. Even luxury properties offer steep weekend discounts. As the city awaits its first W Hotel (scheduled to open at 12th and Arch sts. in Jan 2009), it's seen small changes to its accommodations landscape. The Sheraton on Rittenhouse Square has closed. The Wyndham Franklin is now the 759-room Sheraton Philadelphia Center City, 17th and Race streets (tel. 215/448-2000). Smaller boutique hotels have come into the forefront, such as Washington Square's historic Morris House Hotel, 225 S. 8th St. (tel. 215/922-2446), which annexed an adjacent building in 2005, and Rittenhouse 1715 (tel. 877/791-6500), which underwent a glamorous makeover in 2005.

Outside the city, The Inn at Bowman's Hill, 58 Lurgan Rd., New Hope (tel. 215/862-8090; www.theinnatbowmanshill.com) offers wonderfully lush country comforts. The Lancaster Arts Hotel, 300 Harrisburg Ave., Lancaster (tel. 866/720-ARTS or 717/299-3000; www.lancasterartshotel.com) blends history with sophisticated style in a rehabbed tobacco warehouse.

Dining

Philadelphia's dining scene continues to evolve at lighting speed. The Old City's elegant Andalusian tapas restaurant Amada, 217-219 Chestnut St. (tel. 215/625-2450), is scheduled to open Tinto, 114 S. 20th St. (tel. 215/661-9150), serving wine and tapas from the Basque region in early 2007.

In late 2005, maverick chef Daniel Stern opened Gayle, 617 S. 3rd St. (tel. 215/922-3850), an edgy, jewel box of a bistro on the edge of Queen Village, and in late 2006, he debuted Rae, 2929 Arch St. (tel. 215/922-3839), a 220-seat, open-kitchen, modern skyscraper showplace across from Amtrak 30th Street Station.

Near Gayle are other must-tries: Ansill, 627 S. 3rd St. (tel. 215/627-2485), serves perhaps the most daring fare in the city -- bone-marrow bruschetta, anyone? A block away, Southwark, 4th and Bainbridge streets (tel. 215/238-1888), has become a favorite hangout for creatively prepared seasonal fare. Right across 4th Street from Southwark, venerable Famous Fourth Street Delicatessen, 700 S. 4th St. (tel. 215/922-3274), changed owners and created Philly's best Reuben.

Across town, the Water Works Restaurant, 640 Waterworks Dr. (tel. 215/236-9000), became Philadelphia's prettiest alfresco dining spot. The Park Hyatt at the Bellevue's latest and greatest change was the addition of elegant Nineteen Restaurant, Café and Bar, 200 S. Broad St. (tel. 215/790-1919).

Vegetarians also scored, when award-winning Horizons Café, 611 S. 7th St. (tel. 215/923-6117), brought its amazing meatless gourmet fare to a cheerful spot just off South Street. The Northern Liberties neighborhood saw the addition of the Napa Valley-meets-Northern Italy restaurant, Sovalo, 702 N. 2nd St. (tel. 215/413-7770).

In the Brandywine Valley, Chef Dan Butler recently opened Brandywine Prime Seafood and Chops (tel. 610/388-8088; www.brandywineprime.com), featuring quality dry-aged meats and an extensive wine selection.

Sightseeing

Just north of the still-being-rehabbed Independence Park is Franklin Square, at 6th and Race streets, a formerly neglected park that now feels every bit like a European amusement park, complete with an old-fashioned carousel, Philly-theme golf course, and a shiny new playground.

New ways to see the city include the popular, amphibious Ride the Ducks tours, 6th and Chestnut streets (tel. 877/887-8225). These quirky, land-to-water vehicles roll through Old City and South Street before plunging into the Delaware River at Penn's Landing for a quick dip. And in the spring of 2006, Schuylkill Banks (tel. 888/847-7445) launched three kinds of cruises along the Schuylkill.

Rolling around Kelly Drive in Segway i2 Gliders is another big trend in touring. IGlide Tours (tel. 877/GLIDE-81) depart thrice daily from the Eakins Oval fronting the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

The Philadelphia Museum of Art will cut the ribbon on the cutting-edge new galleries of the stunning, Art Deco Perelman Building across the Parkway, in 2007. The addition will include a public library and a 100-seat cafe.

Look, too, for moves: In 2008, the kid-centric Please Touch Museum, now at 210 N. 21st St. (tel. 215/963-0667), is scheduled to head to larger digs in Fairmount Park's Memorial Hall. In 2009, the National Museum of American Jewish History, 55 N. 5th St. (tel. 215/923-8311), will move across the street to 5th and Market, the current WHYY building. And in fall 2007, the Philadelphia Theatre Company will move from 1714 Delancey Place to the brand-new Suzanne Roberts Theatre on the Avenue of the Arts.

Art addicts will want to make the trek to Reading to experience The GoggleWorks, 201 Washington St. (tel. 610/374-4600; www.goggleworks.com), a sprawling community arts center.

Shopping

Rittenhouse Row has gained at least a dozen stylish retailers; 13th Street between Chestnut and Walnut streets is now a chic haven for everything I ever wanted in my home and closet. The one name I will mention is that of Rescue Rittenhouse Spa Lounge, 255 S. 17th St. (tel. 215/772-2766), by far the most stylishly effective day spa the city has ever seen. (Ask for Lauren Albert; she'll get you what you need.)

After Dark

Cultural centers like the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts and the Academy of Music are stronger than ever. Popular independent music radio station WXPN (88.5 FM) has opened a major music megaplex at 3025 Walnut St. (tel. 215/222-1400).

As for the bar scene, everyone's new favorites are Good Dog, 224 S. 15th St. (tel. 215/985-9600), for late-night burgers and dirty martinis; Society Hill Hotel Restaurant, 301 Chestnut St. (tel. 215/923-3711), for French dips and local beers; Bar Ferdinand, 1030 N. 2nd St. (tel. 215/923-1313), for tiny tapas and big wines; and Vintage, 129 S. 13th St. (tel. 215/922-3095), for an extensive wine list and snacks.

Last, hip bowling alleys Lucky Strikes Lanes and North Bowl have arrived in Philadelphia.