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Frommer's Favorite Experiences
Taking Afternoon Tea at Nineteen: The 19th-floor cafe-in-the-round at the grand Park Hyatt at the Bellevue recently reinstituted tea service, and little girls and their mommies are getting out their white gloves in anticipation. The bird's-eye view from the cafe's impossibly tall windows is spectacular -- enhancing the jambon royal sandwiches and chocolate shortbread.
Visiting the Barnes Foundation: The Barnes Foundation Gallery in Merion houses the most important private collection of Impressionist and early French modern paintings in the world, displaying more Cezannes than all the museums of France put together. The building was designed by Paul Philippe Cret, and is amazing, not only for its lovely design, but also because Albert Barnes was meticulous about displaying the works, often juxtaposing them with objets such as antique iron locks or African tribal masks. It appears the museum will move to Center City Philadelphia in the coming years, so schedule your visit to the current location now: You may not get another chance.
Wandering Through Fairmount Park: It would take dozens of outings to fully explore the 100 miles of trails in this 8,900-acre giant of an urban park -- some of them are virtually unchanged since Revolutionary times. We'll settle for gazing at the hundreds of flame azaleas that bloom behind the Art Museum in spring, special visits to Shofuso Japanese teahouse, and winter strolls along the Wissahickon Creek.
Gallery Hopping on First Friday: On the first Friday of every month, the galleries, stores, and studios of Old City -- just north of Independence National Historical Park -- remain open with refreshments and artists on hand until 9pm. Wander along the cobblestone streets, popping in where you fancy, before a night out in this happening part of town.
Stepping Back in Time in Historic Philadelphia: The reclamation of this country's Colonial capital has been nearly miraculous, from the Liberty Bell's gleaming new home to the renovation of hundreds of row houses with their distinctive brickwork and 18th-century formal gardens (and welcoming benches). But the costumed town criers with free maps and the Revolutionary War-era street theater really bring the experience to life. Just wander; they'll find you.
Eating the Sandwich: We all love history, art, a great jazz solo, and a swanky night on the town. But the craving for Philly's number-one fast food somehow surpasses all other desires. It's primal, an urge that comes over you the moment you enter city limits. The inimitable cheesesteak, spelled in one word, available with sharp Provolone or gooey Cheez Whiz and "wid" or "widout" sauteed onions, is, to many a traveler, worth the trip alone. Find it, along with some of the city's other unsung culinary heroes (pun intended), in chapter 6.
Strolling Around Rittenhouse Square at Night: When the rest of Philadelphia's city squares grow quiet at night, this one twinkles with activity. Patrons toast each other at bistro sidewalk tables. Couples cross the park, hand-in-hand. On a summer night, you're likely to come upon a free musical performance in the square's center. In winter, you'll be dazzled by the bright balls of lights in the treetops.
Enjoying the Lights at Night: The William Penn statue atop City Hall, the Ben Franklin Bridge, and seven Schuylkill River bridges are permanently lighted, joining the beautiful white pin lights that outline the boathouses along the Schuylkill River.
Touring an Open House: If you're in the city at the right time, don't miss the tours of restored mansions in Society Hill, Rittenhouse Square, or Fairmount Park for a delightful lesson in Colonial-era interior design and Americana. The open houses are scattered throughout the year, but during the pre-Christmas season, with their period decorations, they are especially lovely.
Breathing Deeply at the Philadelphia Flower Show: In early March, the Flower Show -- the largest and most prestigious indoor exhibition of its kind in the world -- descends on the Pennsylvania Convention Center, with acres of orchids and traditional and exotic displays.
Exploring the Philadelphia Museum of Art: It has a stupendous collection of masterpieces, period rooms, and crafts, and is becoming one of the hottest museums in the country for special exhibitions. Look for more blockbusters like the recent exhibits of works by Eakins and Degas: "Renoir Landscapes" is scheduled for fall 2007. Wednesday and Friday evening hours have become convivial social scenes, with cocktails and live music.
Cheering the Regattas along the Schuylkill: On any spring weekend, stand along Boathouse Row just north of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and get ready to cheer. Crews race each other every 5 minutes or so, with friends lining the riverbanks rooting for them.
Getting Lost in the Reading Terminal Market: You'll never go completely missing, but you will definitely get caught up in the maze of stalls at this historic market. And when you stumble upon an Amish food counter, artisan baker, local farmer, or elegant cake display, suddenly finding your way out doesn't seem so essential.
Exploring South Philly: Exuberant attitude punctuates every interchange you'll have, whether strolling (with ample tastings) through the Italian Market or seeking out the area's great pizzas, cannoli, or famed cheesesteaks farther south.
Drinking Local Beer: One hundred years ago, Philadelphia was known as the greatest brewing city in the Western Hemisphere. It's not quite that anymore, but it's regaining ground. Bars like Standard Tap, McGillin's, Good Dog Bar and Restaurant, Royal Tavern, and, especially, Monk's feature delicious craft brews, many of them by Yards, Flying Fish, Dogfishhead, Victory, Stout's, and other area brewers.
Catching a Phillies Game at the Ballpark: A summer night at the new Citizens Bank Park means great views from every seat in this old-fashioned-style stadium, with its amazing local foods such as Tony Luke's cheesesteaks. If you sit on the third level, you'll also see a perfectly framed view of the Center City skyline. When Ryan Howard homers, watch the giant Liberty Bell light up and ring.
Taking in the Mummer's Parade: Grown men dancing in feathers, sequins, and spandex mark the annual New Year's Day Mummer's Parade (www.mummers.com), in which thousands strut their way up Broad Street. The music is loud and antiquated, but the experience is festive and fun. Bundle up.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
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