Walking Tour 1

Historic Highlights & Society Hill

Start: Independence Visitor Center, 6th and Market streets.

Finish: City Tavern, 2nd and Walnut streets; optional extension to Penn's Landing.

Time: 6 to 7 hours.

Best Time: Start between 9 and 11am to avoid hour-long waits for Independence Hall tours.

Worst Time: Midafternoon.

Walking Tour: Historic Highlights & Society Hill

Start your tour at the:

1. Independence Visitor Center

The Independence Visitor Center (8:30am-5pm, until 7pm July-Sept) is in Independence National Historical Park, on 6th and Market streets. This handsome brick building was built for the 21st-century renovation of Independence Mall. It maintains spotless restrooms, a cafe for that jump-start-your-day coffee, and a plethora of information about the Park, the city, and the region. This is where you pick up tickets to get inside Independence Hall (whether you've reserved in advance or are counting on walk-up access). Tickets to the Bishop White and Todd houses and information about special tours and daily events are also available here. The John Huston-directed film Independence is shown free of charge every half-hour. There is a handsome exhibition area and a substantial-quality gift shop and bookstore.

Just south of the Visitor Center is:

2. Independence Hall

Independence Hall is grand, graceful, and one of democracy's true shrines. Ranger-led 35-minute tours depart every 15 minutes or so, starting at 9am. (Remember, you must stay inside the secure area of the park, or you will need to go through the screening process again to enter Independence Hall.)

The two flanking buildings, Old City Hall (built to house the Supreme Court) and Congress Hall, were intended to balance each other, and their fanlight-adorned doors, keystone-decorated windows, and simple lines are appealing from any angle. They were used by a combination of federal, state, county, and city governments during a relatively short period.

Turn right as you exit Independence Hall and walk next door for a quick stop in:

3. Old City Hall

Built in 1791, and located at the corner of 5th and Chestnut streets, Old City Hall was home to the third branch of the federal government, the U.S. Supreme Court, under Chief Justice John Jay, from 1791 to 1800. From 1800 to 1870, the building was used as the city hall. An exhibit here describes the first years of the judiciary branch of the U.S. government.

In back of this central trio of buildings is the tree-lined and hallowed:

4. Independence Square

On July 8, 1776, John Nixon read the Declaration of Independence to the assembled city on this spot. At night, from April to October, the "Lights of Liberty" sound-and-light tour/show ends with projections on the back wall of Independence Hall.

Head back through Independence Hall and cross Chestnut Street to:

5. The Liberty Bell

Decades ago, the famously cracked giant bell was located in Independence Hall. Today, it's in a shiny Liberty Bell Center on Market between 5th and 6th streets, between the Visitor Center and Independence Hall. There is a video presentation about the bell's history, and audio is offered in a dozen languages. You will need to pass through a security screening before entering this glass-walled center at 6th Street.

Backtrack across the Visitor Center block with its new landscaping to:

Take a Break

The National Constitution Center's spacious, ground-floor Delegates Restaurant is open daily from 8:30am to 4pm, and serves simple salads, smoked salmon sandwiches, cheesesteaks, chicken fingers, and snacks.

6. National Constitution Center

This is a generous half-block-long space that is dramatically modern, made of limestone, steel, and glass. The center, which opened in July 2003, explores the history of the framing of the Constitution in 1787, and also challenges the visitor to think about the effect that this document has had on the lives of all Americans, from 1787 to the present day. Its designers, Pei Cobb Freed & Partners, have a great track record with the Holocaust Museum in Washington, the Rose Planetarium in New York, and Cleveland's Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Walk under a doorway inscribed "We the People," receive a "delegate's card," a la the Constitution's authors in 1787, and you'll find architecture and creative multimedia exhibits that are informative and entertaining, if ultimately a bit mind-numbing. Families can split up during their visit to experience different parts of the center. The Epcot-esque multimedia introductory theater presentation isn't essential but will appeal to kids.

Returning to Independence Square, walk behind Old City Hall. Along 5th Street and opposite, you'll find the:

7. Library Hall & Philosophical Hall

Library Hall is the 1954 reconstruction of Benjamin Franklin's old Library Company, which was the first lending library in the Colonies. The Library Company is now at 1314 Locust St., and today this graceful Federal building houses the library of the American Philosophical Society, across the street. The collection is fascinating, including Franklin's will, a copy of William Penn's 1701 Charter of Privileges, and Jefferson's own handwritten copy of the Declaration of Independence. Note, however, that not everything is on view at all times. The exhibits focus on the history of science in America. The library's hours follow the park schedule (daily 9am-5pm). Philosophical Hall, across the way, is the home of the American Philosophical Society. The society, founded by Ben Franklin, is made up of a prestigious honor roll of America's outstanding intellects and achievers. In Franklin's day, philosophers were more often than not industrious young men with scientific and learned interests. Current members of the society include former senator Bill Bradley, violinist Itzhak Perlman, poet Rita Dove, and commentator Bill Moyers. The building's interior opened to the public in 2001 for the first time since Philadelphia artist, naturalist, and APS member Charles Wilson Peale closed his museum here in the 19th century. It's open Friday through Sunday, 10am to 4pm, and offers delightful seasonal exhibitions such as "From the Laboratory to the Parlor: Scientific Instruments in Philadelphia, 1750-1875."

Next to Philosophical Hall is the:

8. Second Bank of the United States

Its strong Greek columns have worn away somewhat, but the beautiful bank still holds interest. The Second Bank was chartered by Congress in 1816 for a term of 20 years, at a time when the country felt that it needed reliable circulating money. The building (1818-24), designed like the Philadelphia Exchange by William Strickland, is adapted from the Parthenon, and the Greeks would have been proud of its capable director, Nicholas Biddle. An elitist to the core, he was the man Andrew Jackson and his supporters had in mind when they complained about private individuals controlling public government. "Old Hickory" vetoed renewal of the bank's charter, increasing the money supply but ruining Biddle and the bank.

The building was used as a Customs House until 1935. Now the National Park Service uses it as a portrait gallery of early Americans. The collection contains many of the oldest gallery portraits in the country, painted by Peale, Sully, Neagle, Stuart, and Allston. Admission is free. The building is open daily from 9am to 4pm. The portrait gallery is open July through November, with seasonal hours. (July-Aug daily 10am-5pm; Sept-Oct Wed-Sun 10am-5pm; Nov Wed-Sun 11am-4pm).

Walk east on Chestnut Street 1 block. The southern side of the block is 18th-century all the way, passing New Hall Museum. Crossing the street brings you to a handsome collection of 19th-century banks and commercial facades, including the 1867 First National Bank at no. 315 and the Philadelphia National Bank at no. 323. Go into the marked alleyway to enter:

9. Franklin Court

Ben and Deborah Franklin's home is not much more than excavated foundations and outdoor privy wells encased by a reconstructed frame that delineates the structure's original dimensions. What's most interesting here are the exhibits: a mirrored room dedicated to Franklin's far-flung passions, phones where you can hear international luminaries' opinions of Franklin, and a cleverly staged doll drama in three acts.

You can cross through to Market Street to the north to buy some stamps from Ben's own re-created post office.

Take a Break

A few doors east of Ben Franklin's Post Office on Market Street is Fork Etc., a great spot to grab an espresso, panini, or juice and take a load off while reading one of the cafe's many design-oriented magazines or metropolitan newspapers.

Return to Chestnut Street, and head south on 3rd Street for more history at the:

10. First Bank of the United States

This 1795 building is not open to the public but is a superb example of Federal architecture. This graceful edifice is the oldest surviving bank building in America. Initially, each of the new states issued its own currency. Dealing with 13 different currencies hampered commerce and travel among the states, so Alexander Hamilton proposed a single bank (originally in Carpenters' Hall) for loans and deposits. The classical facade, Hamilton's idea, is meant to recall the democracy and splendor of ancient Greece. The mahogany American eagle on the pediment over the Corinthian columns at the entrance is a famous and rare example of 18th-century sculpture.

The Park Service cleared many of the non-historic structures on the block behind the First Bank (and throughout the Historical Park area), creating 18th-century gardens and lawns.

A bit south of your present location, fine restaurants and charming stores cluster south of Lombard, especially around Head House Square (1803) at 2nd and Lombard streets.

Among these residences are Georgian and Federal public buildings and churches, from Head House Square and Pennsylvania Hospital to St. Peter's and St. Paul's, which may make you feel as if you've stumbled onto a movie set. But all of the buildings are used -- and the area works as a living community today. Continuing on your tour from the greenery in back of the First Bank, you'll see very typically restored row houses along the southern side of Walnut Street between 3rd and 4th streets. At no. 309 Walnut Street is the:

11. Bishop White House

Tours (for 10 persons at a time) are the only way to see the house; free tickets (which include admission to the Todd House, below) can be obtained only at the Independence Visitor Center. This house is on one of the loveliest row-house blocks in the city, and it's a splendid example of how a pillar of the community lived in Federal America. Bishop White (1748-1836) was the founder of Episcopalianism, breaking with the Anglican church. He was a good friend of Franklin, as you'll see from the upstairs library. Notice how well the painted cloth floor in the entrance hall survived muddy boots and 20 varnishings. Perhaps the most unusual interior feature is the "necessary," an uncommon amenity in Colonial Philadelphia. The library reveals the bishop's tastes, featuring Sir Walter Scott's Waverley novels, the Encyclopaedia Britannica, the Koran, and other traditional religious texts.

Farther east on Walnut at the corner of 4th and Walnut streets is the other park-run dwelling, the:

12. Todd House

Tours of the house (for 10 persons at a time) are required (you can't explore on your own), but free; tickets can be obtained at the Independence Visitor Center, where they come with a tour of the Bishop White House. John Todd, Jr., was a young Quaker lawyer of moderate means. His house, built in 1775, cannot compare to that of Bishop White , but it is far grander than Betsy Ross's. Todd used the ground-floor parlor as his law office and the family lived and entertained on the second floor. When Todd died in the 1793 epidemic of yellow fever, his vivacious widow Dolley married a Virginia lawyer named James Madison, the future president.

Continue for 2 1/2 blocks down 4th Street to no. 321, the:

13. Physick House

This is possibly the finest residential structure in Society Hill. Take a few steps east on adjoining Cypress Street to reach Delancey Park, more popularly known as "Three Bears Park," a delightful playground with places to play and a group of stone bears that are perfect photo props.

Continue south along 4th Street. More Georgian and Federal church facades appear at the corners of 4th and Pine streets. If you like, take a detour and keep going south on 4th Street to Lombard and South streets, where you'll find South Street's funky shopping and nightlife district. When you're through, head back to 3rd Street, which you'll take north to Walnut Street. Go right (east) on Walnut to 2nd Street and:

14. City Tavern

Built in 1773, demolished in 1854, and reconstructed in 1948, this was the most opulent and genteel tavern and social hall in the Colonies and the scene of many discussions among the founding fathers. Unlike most of the city's pubs, it was built with businessmen's subscriptions, to assure quality. George Washington met with most delegates to the Constitutional Convention for a farewell dinner here in 1787. The City Tavern now serves Colonial fare continuously from 11am. The back garden seating is shady and cool -- perfect for a midafternoon break in warm weather.

If you choose to continue toward the Delaware via the pleasant pedestrian extension of Walnut Street and the staircase at its end, you'll pass between the Sheraton Society Hill hotel and the new incarnation of famous Bookbinder's restaurant, winding up more or less in front of the wonderful Independence Seaport Museum and the new Hyatt Regency on the waterfront.