Walking Tour 2

Old City

Start: Franklin Court, 3rd and Chestnut streets.

Finish: Independence Square, 5th and Walnut streets.

Time: From 3 to 5 hours.

Best Time: Start no later than 3pm to avoid museum closings. If contemporary art and socializing is your interest, the first Friday of every month brings special late hours for all galleries, cafes, and many historic attractions.

Worst Time: Afternoons.

Old City is an intriguing blend of 17th- and 18th-century artisan row houses, robust 19th-century warehouses and commercial structures, and 20th-century rehabs of all of the above featuring artist lofts and galleries. Many of the cast-iron and brick buildings are being carefully restored and preserved; even if they are modern condos outside, their facades retain a sense of history.

Walking Tour: Old City

1. Franklin Court

This was Ben Franklin's final home, and is now a post office.

Standing on Market Street, you can't miss the graceful spire of:

2. Christ Church

Christ Church, with its restful benches and adjoining cemetery, has for centuries been Philadelphia's leading place of worship.

Take a Break

It may be a bit early for a break, but the block of Church Street directly to the west of the church contains Old City Coffee at no. 221, a favorite place for marvelous coffee and light lunches. If the end of the day is approaching by the time you get here, duck underneath the Market Street ramp to I-95 at Front Street to reach Panorama's wine bar and bistro.

Walk east down Church Street and take a left at Front Street. Walk north along Front Street for 3 blocks to get the flavor of the 1830s warehouses, such as Girard at 18-30 N. Front St. and Smythe Stores at 101 Arch St. Take a left onto:

3. Elfreth's Alley

Since 1702, this has been the oldest continuously occupied group of homes in America. Several courts are perfect for wandering into, and you can enter the house at no. 126 and shop at the gift boutique at no. 124.

Walk to the end of Elfreth's Alley and make a left back onto 2nd Street, with its china and restaurant-supply stores. Head south now and turn right on Arch Street, where you'll come to no. 239, the:

4. Betsy Ross House

The tour of the tiny dwelling is short, but there's a large garden to explore.

Continue west on Arch Street until you find 3rd Street. At the corner of 3rd Street, turn north (toward the Ben Franklin Bridge) to reach the:

5. Old City Galleries & Shops

This stretch of 3rd Street is my favorite place to shop. I especially love the retro-chic home goods at no. 124 Foster's Urban Homeware and the clothes and accessories at funky, pretty Vagabond at no. 37.

Take a Break

The blocks of 2nd and 3rd streets between Chestnut and Market contain lots of good, casual restaurants such as Cuba Libre, Farmacia, and Society Hill Hotel and Restaurant.

Cross 3rd Street to the Hoop Skirt Factory at 309-313 Arch St., dating from 1875, and the charming Loxley Court just beyond, designed by carpenter Benjamin Loxley in 1741. (It stayed within the family until 1901.) On the south side of Arch Street is the:

6. Arch Street Meeting House

This is the largest Quaker meetinghouse in America, a simple 1805 structure with a substantial history.

Walk west on Arch Street to the corner of 5th and Arch streets, where you'll find:

7. Christ Church Burial Ground

This is the resting place of Benjamin and Deborah Franklin and other notables. Toss a penny -- in honor (and defiance) of Ben's famous "A penny saved is a penny earned" -- through the opening in the brick wall for luck.

Walk south down 5th Street to 55 N. 5th St. to the:

8. National Museum of American Jewish History

The city of Philadelphia has a history of distinguished Jewish involvement in town affairs that's almost as long as the life of the city itself. This museum, connected to the city's oldest congregation, commemorates the history of Jews in America. The museum plans to relocate across the street to the current WHYY building at 5th and Market streets in 2009.

Across 5th and Market streets, you'll find the vast:

9. Independence Mall

Independence Mall is a swath of urban renewal that has recently been graced with the Independence Visitor Center, beautiful landscaping, and a new home for the Liberty Bell.

Continue walking south toward Market Street to the:

10. Independence Visitor Center

For a general rest stop, tickets to chief Independence National Historical Park sights, and information about the city and region, this facility is superb.

Walk south, crossing Market Street toward Chestnut Street to the must-see:

11. The Liberty Bell

Cross Chestnut Street, heading south to:

12. Independence Hall

Just on the other side of Independence Hall (north, toward Walnut St.) are plenty of benches for taking a load off and reviewing your whirlwind history lesson:

13. Independence Square

One of the quietest and nicest squares in the city, the site of the first, famous reading of the Declaration of Independence, is the perfect spot to end your excursion. (But we won't blame you if you finish it up a couple blocks early at the bar at nearby Washington Square restaurant.)