Neighborhoods in Brief

Philadelphia is more of a collection of neighborhoods than a unified metropolis. Here are short descriptions of those that you're likely to find yourself in.

Bella Vista -- Vibrant section of South Philadelphia from South Street to Washington Avenue, 6th to 11th Street. This neighborhood includes the now-international Italian Market, many coffee shops, trattorias, and bakeries.

Center City -- In other places, this busiest section would be called "downtown." From east to west, the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers bind this easy-to-navigate main city section. South Street and Vine Street bind it to the south and north. Neighborhoods within this area include Old City, Society Hill, Rittenhouse Square, and Washington West.

Chestnut HIll -- This enclave of genteel city living is centered on cobblestone upper Germantown Avenue, and is the highest point within city limits. It's filled with art and antique galleries, shops, tearooms, and comfortable restaurants. Visit it at www.chestnuthillpa.com.

Chinatown -- Nowadays it's largely commercial rather than residential. Most visitors come for its dozens of good restaurants, a growing number of hotels, and cheap parking only 5 minutes from the Convention Center. And it stays awake all night.

Fairmount -- Also known as the Art Museum area, this neighborhood stretches north from the Benjamin Franklin Parkway to Girard Avenue. Although it's largely residential, Fairmount also includes the Free Library, Rodin Museum, Eastern State Penitentiary, and the Philadelphia Art Museum itself.

Germantown -- One of Philadelphia's oldest settlements is northwest of Center City. This area was founded by German émigrés, attracted by Penn's religious tolerance. Outside of its wonderful historic mansions, however, it is not especially attractive now.

Manayunk -- This neighborhood, 4 miles up the Schuylkill River from Center City, has been gentrified over the last 15 years. Now boutiques, furniture and art galleries, and cafe/restaurants line Main Street, overlooking a 19th-century canal adjoining the river. It's a picturesque place for an afternoon stroll and an alfresco snack. Visit it virtually at www.manayunk.com.

Mount Airy -- Between Chestnut Hill and Germantown, this community is known for its pioneering diversity, beautifully mismatched houses, tree-lined streets, and independent shopping, dining, and entertainment. A great place for a Sunday drive.

Northern Liberties -- North of Old City, between the Delaware River and 6th Street, this developing area is home to both low-income housing and brand-new million-dollar lofts, and the artist-owned brownstones in between. Go here to see how hip bars and simple bistros are fueling the city's revival. The website: www.northernliberties.org.

Old City -- Think New York's SoHo or Chelsea, in the shadow of the Benjamin Franklin Bridge just north of Independence National Historical Park, with an eclectic blend of 18th-century row houses, 19th-century warehouses, and 20th-century rehabs. This is now the city's hottest neighborhood for the 20- and 30-something set (although many locals sniff at the bridge-and-tunnel-style interlopers who come from Jersey and other suburbs), with chic restaurants, bars, and boutiques set in historic buildings and storefronts. The first Friday of every month is a pleasant block party, with galleries and stores open late. Visit www.oldcitydistrict.org.

Queen Village -- Between Society Hill and South Philly, this leafy neighborhood of old houses (once known as Wiccaco, then Pennsport) is bounded by South Street to the north, Washington Avenue to the south, the Delaware to the east, and 6th Street to the west. There are lots of small, reasonably priced cafes and bistros here, as well as Fabric Row, South 4th Street between Bainbridge and Catharine streets, where you'll find old-time fabric and notions shops along with newer galleries, salons, and clothing shops.

Rittenhouse Square -- This beautifully landscaped park ringed by elegant condominiums built during the 1930s and historic mansions illustrates the elegance, wealth, and culture of Philadelphia. Now, sleek outdoor cafes and luxury hotels line the park also. From the Rittenhouse Hotel on a sunny day, walk through the square to Walnut Street, where the shopping rivals that of Boston and San Francisco for charm and sophistication.

Society Hill -- This heart of reclaimed 18th-century Philadelphia is loosely defined by Walnut and Lombard streets and Front and 7th streets. Today, it's a fashionable section of the old city, just south of Independence National Historical Park, where you can stroll among restored Federal, Colonial, and Georgian homes -- even the contemporary, architecturally modern is interesting and immaculately maintained.

South Philadelphia -- It's Rocky Balboa-meets-artist lofts and authentic tacquerias. Three hundred years of immigration have made South Philadelphia the city's most colorful and ethnically diverse neighborhood, although the overwhelming feel is distinctly Italian (think 1910s Calabria). Stroll the gritty, redolent Italian Market at 9th and Christian, heading south, snacking on cheeses, cured meats, pastries, and tamales, on your way to the famously flashy cheesesteak stands at Passyunk and 9th streets.

South Street -- The street that divides Society Hill and Queen Village was the city limit in William Penn's day. The 1960s saw bohemian artists reclaiming this street in the name of peace and love; an eclectic teen scene has replaced the previous hippies. Quiet by day and cruised by night, it's a colorful spot for casual dining, drinking, shopping, gallery-hopping, and getting pierced (or tattooed). The neighborhood's website is www.south-street.com.

University City -- West Philadelphia was farmland until the University of Pennsylvania moved here from 9th and Chestnut streets in the 1870s. Wander through Penn's campus for Ivy League architecture that includes an 1895 college quadrangle modeled on Oxford and Cambridge, but with Dutch gables. Also nearby are the bustling campuses of Drexel University, University of the Sciences, Lincoln University Urban Center, and the Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College.

Washington Square West -- "Wash West" extends from Washington Square Park at 6th and Walnut streets south to Lombard and west to Juniper Street. Still catching up to Rittenhouse or Society Hill, this quiet stretch includes Antique Row (Pine St.), the "Gayborhood," and a retail corridor along 13th Street.