Philly's Italian Market -- While touring South Street or South Philadelphia, make an effort to head a few blocks south to the Italian Market, located along 9th Street, from Fitzwater to Wharton. This gritty outdoor market -- part of Rocky's famous run -- has stands hawking fresh produce, pasta, seafood, and other culinary delights. With the atmosphere of a street fair, it's a tad rough-and-tumble, what with the merchants yelling and the trash-fires burning (in winter) and the chickens squawking (at the butcher south of the main area). Some of the more famous vendors include Sonny D'Angelo's butcher shop, Di Bruno Bros. House of Cheese, a cramped space for the ultimate in dairy, and Giordano's produce stand at the corner of 9th and Washington. Before you reach the market, be sure to pick up a loaf of sesame seed-coated Italian bread "seeded" at Sarcone's Bakery, between Fitzwater and Catharine streets. Here's a fun tidbit for you: The big mural across from Di Bruno Bros. Pronto is of controversial former mayor Frank Rizzo. According to the Mural Arts Commission, it's the most defaced mural in the city. The market is open daily from dawn to dusk but many vendors close early on Sunday. Bus: 47 or 64.
A Taste of Ethnic Philly: Reading Terminal Market--The Reading Terminal Market, at 12th and Arch streets (tel. 215/922-2317;), has been a greengrocer, snack shop, butcher, fish market, and sundries store for Philadelphians since the late 1800s. The idea was to use the space underneath the terminal's tracks for food vendors so that commuters and businesspeople could stock up easily and cheaply; now, it's lively, charming, redolent, and noisy, a great place to have lunch or breakfast, or pick up a picnic. Half of the stalls make up an English-style covered market with cool brick floors and the scent of fresh food and baked bread; the other vendors are gourmet grocers.
Scrapple, mangoes, clam chowder, pretzels -- you name it, if it's fresh, you can find it here. You can still see the Amish in the city on their market days (Wed and Sat), and you can buy sticky buns at Beiler's Bakery, soft pretzels made before your eyes at Fisher's, and individual egg custards ($1) and chicken potpies ($6) at the Dutch Eating Place. If you're in the market for meat, Harry Ochs and Halteman Family have the most extensive selections, with great country hams and local honey as well. Downtown Cheese Shop offers gourmet cheeses; visit Salumeria for hoagies. The best coffee is sold at Old City Coffee.
If your stomach is rumbling uncontrollably by now, Termini Brothers Bakery will satisfy it with Italian cannoli pastries or Braverman's will fill it with an egg challah, Danish, or other pastry. For more protein, Pearl's Oyster Bar practically gives away six cherrystone clams for $4.25, and a shrimp platter with french fries, bread, and coleslaw goes for $8.50. Or try Coastal Cave Trading Co., which has great clam chowder, oyster crackers, and smoked fish. Just inside 12th Street, Bassett's purveys Philadelphia's entry in the best American ice-cream contest at $1.75 a cone. The shakes ($3.75) are no less enticing.
The 1990s renovation of the market has left it with more seating. The Down Home Diner is an excellent choice for breakfast or lunch. The 12th Street Cantina sells not only tasty enchiladas and burritos, but also authentic ingredients, like blue cornmeal. Rick's Philly Steaks -- a third generation of Pat's down in South Philly -- serves up one of the city's best cheesesteaks. The Beer Garden draws pints of Yuengling Porter and Dock Street Beer, among other more mass-market brews.
The market is open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 6pm, but many vendors close at 5pm. Prices vary by vendor, and about half accept cash only. Every second Friday, the Reading Terminals, a rock band, plays during lunchtime. There are public restrooms here.
